Vulcain

Among the pantheon of Swiss watchmaking houses, Vulcain occupies a distinctive position as the creator of the first truly functional mechanical alarm wristwatch. Founded in 1858, the brand built its reputation on technical innovation, meticulous craftsmanship, and an ingenious solution to one of horology’s most challenging complications. The Vulcain Cricket, introduced in 1947, not only revolutionized alarm watches but also earned an unprecedented distinction: becoming the timepiece of choice for multiple United States Presidents, earning the moniker “The Watch of Presidents.”​

The Ditisheim Dynasty and Early Foundations

The Vulcain story begins with the Ditisheim family, among the many Alsatian families who migrated to Switzerland during the 19th century to participate in the burgeoning watchmaking industry. Around 1858, brothers Aron and Maurice Ditisheim established themselves in La Chaux-de-Fonds under the name Ditisheim frères, with brother Émile joining the enterprise in 1883. This marked the beginning of what would become one of Switzerland’s most innovative horological manufactures.​

By 1886, Maurice had assumed sole leadership, with the company operating simply as Maurice Ditisheim. The business specialized in complicated pocket watches, with particular emphasis on repeater complications that showcased the family’s commitment to acoustic horological challenges. This early focus on chiming mechanisms would prove prophetic, foreshadowing the alarm innovation that would define the brand six decades later.​

In 1893, following Maurice’s departure from active management, Herman, Albert, and JulesDitisheim assumed control, restructuring the company as Ditisheim & Cie. Under their stewardship, the manufacture earned acclaim at major international exhibitions, winning awards in Paris and Chicago for complicated pocket watches. The Volta trademark was registered in 1896, and in 1898 the company added “Fabrique Vulcain” to its official name. The Vulcain trademark itself was registered the following year.​

The name “Vulcain” (the French spelling of Vulcan, the Roman god of fire and metalworking) reflected the company’s core identity as a manufacturer that transformed raw materials through heat and skilled craftsmanship into refined timepieces. Like many producers of mass-market repeating pocket watches during this era, Vulcain initially sourced movements from the renowned Le Phare factory in Le Locle, which had built its reputation on remarkably quiet regulators that allowed repeater chimes to be heard more clearly.​

However, Vulcain demonstrated early technical ambition by developing its own silent regulator system in 1898, patented under CH 15,833. This proprietary mechanism made Vulcain calibers readily identifiable and established the manufacture’s capacity for in-house innovation. By 1909, recognizing the growing wristwatch trend, Vulcain had begun producing wristwatches alongside its traditional pocket watch lines.​

During World War I in 1915, the Ditisheims created Fabrique Studio, which served as Vulcain’s second, more economical brand targeting budget-conscious consumers. Additional family members joined the business in the 1920s, most significantly Robert Ditisheim in 1925. Robert, trained as an engineer, would prove instrumental in developing the revolutionary alarm complication that would transform Vulcain from a respected regional manufacturer into an internationally recognized innovator.​

The Cricket Revolution: Engineering the Impossible

The development of the Vulcain Cricket represents one of the most significant technical achievements in mid-20th century watchmaking. While alarm pocket watches had existed, and two earlier attempts at alarm wristwatches had been made in 1910 and 1920, none had succeeded in creating a practical, reliable wristwatch with sufficient alarm volume to actually wake a sleeping wearer. The technical challenges were formidable: fitting the alarm mechanism into the confined space of a wristwatch case, generating adequate sound volume, preventing the alarm vibrations from disrupting the movement’s accuracy, and ensuring consistent performance.​

In 1942, with World War II still raging, Robert Ditisheim began serious development work on a wristwatch alarm. Some speculation suggests the project may have originated from military requirements, though conclusive documentation remains elusive. The initial prototype showed promise but required substantial refinement. The critical breakthrough came when Robert consulted with physicist Paul Langevin, who provided the conceptual framework that would solve the acoustic challenge.​

Langevin observed that if an insect as small as a cricket could produce a sound audible from dozens of meters away, similar acoustic efficiency must be achievable in a watch mechanism. The solution involved a judiciously placed stud attached to a membrane. When the hammer struck this assembly, the membrane would resonate powerfully, with the sound amplified by a specially designed double caseback pierced with holes. This caseback acted as a resonance chamber, dramatically increasing the volume and carrying power of the alarm tone.​

After five years of development, prototyping, and refinement, Vulcain unveiled the Cricket at the 1947 Swiss watch fair. The watch was powered by Caliber 120, a 22mm manually wound movement featuring 17 jewels and operating at 18,000 vibrations per hour. The revolutionary dual-barrel architecture represented the movement’s most significant innovation: one barrel powered the timekeeping train, while a completely independent second barrel drove the alarm mechanism. This separation ensured the alarm could sound for approximately 25 seconds when fully wound without affecting the movement’s 42-hour power reserve.​

The user interface reflected elegant simplicity. A single crown at 3 o’clock wound both barrels, with clockwise rotation charging the alarm barrel and counterclockwise rotation winding the movement barrel. A pusher at 2 o’clock released the crown to set the alarm hand, which indicated the desired alarm time on a peripheral track marked in ten-minute intervals. The watch even featured a central seconds hand, unusual for alarm watches at the time.​​

One minor limitation existed: the hands could only be set forward, not backward. However, this represented an acceptable compromise given the complication’s overall achievement. In 1948, the Cricket’s precision earned validation when it won the international Chronometry Competition at the Neuchâtel Observatory.​

The Caliber 120 also incorporated the Exactomatic system, patented in 1946. This ingenious device equalized friction on the balance wheel axis across all positions by modifying the Incabloc endstones, providing more consistent amplitude and improved accuracy when the watch was worn. The combination of robust construction, reliable timekeeping, and functional alarm established the Cricket as far more than a novelty: it was a genuine tool watch for the modern age.​

The Presidents’ Watch: Marketing Genius and Political Prestige

While technical excellence gave the Cricket credibility, association with American political power elevated it to iconic status. Contrary to assumptions that Vulcain orchestrated elaborate marketing campaigns, the brand’s presidential connections emerged organically, beginning with a single gift that would establish a decades-long tradition.​

In 1953, President Harry S. Truman received a 14-karat gold Cricket from the White House Press Photographers’ Association as he prepared to leave office. The gift may have carried subtle humor, reminding the President not to forget scheduled photo sessions. Truman, already known for wearing fine watches (he had received a gold Universal Tri-Compax at the Potsdam Accords signing), embraced the Cricket. Of all his timepieces, the Cricket became the watch most closely associated with him.​

Truman’s successor, Dwight D. Eisenhower, was already wearing a Vulcain Cricket before assuming the presidency. The watch famously rang during a press conference, prompting observers in Neuchâtel to quip that “Switzerland has taken its revenge” against the President who had signed protectionist agreements limiting Swiss watch imports to the United States. Vulcain naturally leveraged this connection, featuring Eisenhower prominently in advertising campaigns.​

Lyndon B. Johnson became Vulcain’s most enthusiastic presidential advocate. He purchased his own Cricket during a visit to Geneva and sent it to Vulcain for service in 1964, prompting a warm thank-you letter in which Johnson stated he felt “somewhat less than dressed without it”. Johnson reportedly gave away approximately 200 Crickets as gifts during his presidency and post-presidency years. Richard Nixon received his Cricket from the President of the American Watch Importers Association after speaking at the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors.​

The tradition continued with subsequent administrations. Ronald Reagan received his Cricket from Vulcain’s Finnish agent during a presidential trip to Helsinki. Later gifts came directly from Vulcain and its corporate parent: George H.W. Bush and Bill Clinton both received Crickets from Revue-Thommen (which had absorbed Vulcain by that period). Barack Obama received a Cricket upon his election, and Vulcain confirmed they would present one to Donald Trump as well. Joe Biden had actually purchased his own Cricket years before assuming the presidency.​

This unparalleled association with American political power transformed the Cricket from a Swiss watchmaking achievement into a cultural icon. The “President’s Watch” designation carried weight that no advertising budget could purchase, establishing Vulcain’s prestige in the crucial American market.

Product Evolution: Expanding the Cricket Family

The Cricket’s commercial and critical success provided Vulcain with resources and confidence to expand its product range while maintaining focus on its signature complication. The 1950s through 1970s saw numerous Cricket variants and related models that extended the brand’s technical capabilities and market reach.

Cricket Variants and Updates

In 1957, Vulcain introduced the Cricket-Calendar, powered by the new Caliber 401. This movement added a date window at 3 o’clock and small seconds at 6 o’clock, addressing customer demands for additional functionality. However, Caliber 401 made a significant compromise: unlike the original Caliber 120’s dual-barrel architecture, the 401 used a single barrel to power both the movement and alarm. This design choice reduced alarm duration to approximately 15 seconds and altered the operational sequence.​

Setting the alarm on Caliber 401/402 models required pushing the button at 4 o’clock first, then pulling the crown at 2 o’clock and rotating counterclockwise to adjust the alarm hand. After setting, the user had to manually pull the 4 o’clock button back out; forgetting this step would prevent the alarm from engaging. This more complex operation sequence, combined with the shorter alarm duration, meant Caliber 401 never achieved the iconic status of the original Caliber 120. The movement did appear in various configurations, including waterproof models like the S1521A and S1522A.​

Around 1952, Vulcain launched the Efemerid, expanding beyond alarm complications. However, the Cricket concept dominated the brand’s identity and product development focus.​

The Golden Voice: Miniature Masterpiece

In 1958, marking the company’s centennial, Vulcain accomplished a remarkable feat of miniaturization with the Cricket Golden Voice. Officially launched in 1964 as a ladies’ model, the Golden Voice was based on a specific 14-ligne (19.5mm) caliber created in 1958, designated Caliber 406. Despite measuring just 8.75 lignes in diameter and 5.25mm in thickness, this movement incorporated a direct center seconds hand and 44 additional components compared to a standard movement.​

The technical challenge of fitting a functional alarm into such a diminutive package required extensive research and innovation. Particular attention focused on acoustics, as the reduced membrane size threatened to compromise sound volume. Engineers tested multiple materials before selecting 18-karat gold for the resonating caseback. Gold’s density produced a warmer, more sustained tone compared to steel, creating a crystalline chime that collectors describe as remarkably pleasant. The model earned its “Golden Voice” designation honestly.​

However, the gold caseback’s malleability created durability challenges. Many Golden Voice watches suffered dented or excessively thinned casebacks from impacts or over-polishing. For collectors, a pristine caseback with sharp “VULCAIN – GOLDEN VOICE” engraving is essential, as caseback condition directly affects sound quality. Despite housing identical technical sophistication to larger Cricket models, Golden Voice watches remain undervalued in today’s collector market, with examples in 14-karat gold cases selling for $1,500 to $3,000, representing exceptional value for a complicated gold watch from the 1950s.​

The Cricket Nautical: Diving into the Depths

Vulcain’s most technically ambitious Cricket variant emerged in 1961 as a response to the nascent professional diving industry. The Cricket Nautical represented collaboration between the manufacture and three passionate diving pioneers: Prof. Hannes Keller, a Swiss mathematician and deep-sea diving innovator who developed advanced gas mixtures; Max-Yves Brandily, an explorer and filmmaker; and Arthur Droz, a national certified diving instructor.​

Standard compressed-air diving limited depth to approximately 60-70 meters, but Keller’s gas mixture research enabled descents to 200-250 meters while dramatically reducing decompression time. These pioneers needed timing instruments matching their ambitions, leading to the Cricket Nautical development.​

The specifications were exacting: 300-meter water resistance, clear underwater sound transmission, and integrated decompression calculation. Vulcain engineered a case with three superimposed casebacks, thin enough to vibrate powerfully yet strong enough to withstand approximately 30 atmospheres of pressure. This “triple caseback” acted as a resonance chamber, amplifying the alarm sound underwater while maintaining watertight integrity.​

Contrary to common assumptions, sound travels exceptionally well underwater, making an audible alarm a genuinely practical safety feature for divers. The Cricket Nautical’s alarm could be heard clearly at depth, providing an acoustic signal that complemented visual timing references.​

The dial incorporated the Keller-Bühlmann decompression scale, a groundbreaking calculation system developed by the collaborators. The traditional rotating diver’s bezel was eliminated in favor of a central rotating dial controlled by an additional crown. This dial sat above the fixed main dial and featured a rectangular aperture displaying required decompression stop times at 9, 6, and 3 meters. By setting the rotating dial based on planned depth and duration, divers could read mandatory stop times directly from the watch during ascent.​

The Cricket Nautical measured 42mm in diameter, substantial for the era, and housed the proven Caliber 120 movement. The watch featured two crowns (one for the movement, one for the rotating decompression dial) and one pusher (for the alarm). The crystal underwent extensive research, with specially resistant plastic selected for its pressure tolerance.​

First deployed in 1961, the Cricket Nautical accompanied Hannes Keller during multiple record-setting dives. On November 3, 1966, in Toulon, France, Keller reached the abyssal depth of almost 250 meters wearing a Cricket Nautical, with the record witnessed and validated by legendary explorer Jacques Cousteau. This achievement demonstrated that the Cricket Nautical was not merely a marketing exercise but a genuine professional tool capable of supporting extreme diving operations.​

The Cricket Nautical predated Jaeger-LeCoultre’s more famous Memovox Polaris (1968) and followed only two years after JLC’s Memovox Deep Sea (1959), establishing Vulcain as a pioneer in the specialized alarm diver’s watch category.​

Corporate Consolidation and the Quartz Crisis

The 1960s brought both technical triumphs and existential challenges to Vulcain and the broader Swiss watchmaking industry. The end of the statut horloger (protective regulations established in the 1930s) exposed Swiss manufacturers to intensified foreign competition. The Fédération Horlogère and ASUAG encouraged company mergers to pool resources and achieve economies of scale.​

In 1961, Vulcain joined three other companies to form Manufactures d’Horlogerie Suisses Réunies (MSR): Revue Thommen, Vulcain, Phénix, and Buser Frères. MSR represented substantial manufacturing capacity, employing 760 workers with annual production capability exceeding 600,000 watches. Revue Thommen, the largest member, deliberately held only 48% of the holding company to avoid excessive decision-making power.​

Initially, the MSR structure proved beneficial to Vulcain. All ébauches (blank movements) were now manufactured at Revue Thommen’s facilities, but each brand maintained independent strategy and sales departments. Administrative functions remained in La Chaux-de-Fonds. During the 1960s, Vulcain launched new models including the Meteor II waterproof watch (1963) and various Cricket refinements.​

However, the “quartz crisis” of the 1970s and 1980s devastated the Swiss mechanical watch industry. Inexpensive, accurate quartz watches from Japan and Asia flooded global markets, rendering mechanical watches commercially obsolete in the mass market. MSR rationalized operations, abandoning the Buser and Phénix brands to focus resources on Revue and Vulcain.​

Even this streamlining proved insufficient. The Vulcain brand itself was gradually sidelined during the 1970s and early 1980s. In a bitter irony, when the famous Cricket model was reissued with its original caliber in 1987, it bore the Revue Thommen name rather than Vulcain. The manufacture that had created the alarm wristwatch was reduced to a subsidiary identity.​

Fabrique des Montres Vulcain et Studio lingered through the late 1990s. In 1959, the Studio brand had been merged with Vulcain under the name Fabrique des Montres Vulcain et Studio. By 1999, the company’s headquarters were transferred to Waldenburg, where Revue-Thommen operated. In 2000, over 140 years after its founding, the company declared bankruptcy.​

The machinery for producing Cricket calibers sat abandoned in the Straumann family’s facilities in Waldenburg, gathering dust as a monument to Switzerland’s horological decline. It appeared Vulcain had joined the countless prestigious watch brands extinguished by technological disruption.​

Resurrection: The Bernard Fleury Era and PMH

The Vulcain story took an unexpected turn in 2001 when entrepreneur Bernard R. Fleuryrecognized the latent value in the dormant brand. Through his company Production et Marketing Horloger (PMH), Fleury acquired the Vulcain and Cricket trademarks along with the original production tooling for the Cricket calibers from the Straumann family.​

Fleury understood that Vulcain possessed assets few “dead” brands could claim: genuine technical innovation (the alarm complication), authentic heritage, complete manufacturing archives, and cultural significance through presidential associations. Unlike many watch brand revivals that amount to little more than licensing a name to apply to generic watches, Fleury committed to authentic reconstruction of Vulcain’s technical capabilities.

In March 2002, the renaissance became reality. The historic Cricket movement was thoroughly reengineered, now designated Caliber V-10. Using modern 3D modeling tools, engineers analyzed the original Caliber 120, identified potential improvements, and developed partnerships with Swiss suppliers around Le Locle and La Chaux-de-Fonds to produce components. The manufacture itself relocated to Le Locle, at Chemin des Tourelles 4.​

The updated V-10 caliber retained the fundamental architecture of the 1947 original while incorporating modern materials and tolerances. The movement measures 28mm in diameter and 5.6mm in height, featuring 165 components and 25 jewels. Operating at 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5Hz), the V-10 provides 52 hours of power reserve and approximately 20 seconds of alarm duration. Critically, the dual-barrel system and Exactomatic balance protection remain integral to the design.​

Under Fleury’s leadership, PMH (later renamed Manufacture des Montres Vulcain) produced various Cricket models and complications. The company developed additional Cricket calibers, including:

• V-11: V-10 with date complication (199 parts, 30 jewels)

• V-13: Refined V-10 with Côtes de Genève decoration

• V-16: Date variant with meticulous finish and charcoal grey coating

• V-18: High-finish V-10 with Geneva stripes and grey coating​

The brand also ventured into automatic alarm movements, developing:

• V-20: 234 parts, 36 jewels, with automatic winding

• V-21: Automatic with date, 271 parts

• V-22 and V-28: Various automatic configurations with decorative finishes​

The V-21, unveiled around 2009, represented a genuine innovation: the first automatic Cricket caliber. Converting the manual-wind alarm to automatic architecture required substantial engineering, with 257 total components (100 more than the V-10). The alarm mechanism now featured an arm striking an anvil supported by a balance spring, with a ball-bearing mounted unidirectional rotor ensuring consistent amplitude.​

PMH also produced ambitious high-complication pieces like the Imperial Gong (2005), which combined the alarm function with a one-minute flying tourbillon. Limited to 12 pieces across various precious metal configurations, the Imperial Gong demonstrated that the revived Vulcain could compete in haute horlogerie. Auction results showed an 18k white gold Imperial Gong achieving $42,000, while a yellow gold version realized similar prices.​

In December 2009, PMH SA (Manufacture des Montres Vulcain) passed under control of Excellence Holding, a Swiss group owning the prestigious Les Ambassadeurs retail chain, with ultimate ownership traced to the Saudi Arabian Al-Rayes family. Under Excellence Holding, Vulcain continued producing Cricket variations, including the 44mm Cricket X-Treme sports model and various vintage-inspired dress Crickets.​

However, by 2015, little was heard from the brand, which entered another dormant period. While watches continued to be produced, the brand lacked clear direction and market momentum.​

The Modern Revival: Promobe, Duarte, and Laidet

In 2017, Luxembourg-based investment group Promobe SA acquired Vulcain from Excellence Holding. Promobe, which had previously purchased Italian watch brand Anonimo in 2013, saw potential in Vulcain’s heritage and technical capabilities.​

Carla Duarte joined the organization as an accountant in 2018, and her business acumen quickly became apparent. In 2021, she was promoted to CEO, tasked with orchestrating Vulcain’s reawakening. As of the 2022 relaunch, the manufacture employed just two watchmakers, reflecting the brand’s boutique scale.​

Promobe and Duarte made a critical strategic decision: engaging Guillaume Laidet as a consultant to guide the brand’s revival. Laidet, a French entrepreneur then aged 37, had established himself as a specialist in resurrecting dormant watch brands. After working in marketing roles at Zenith, Girard-Perregaux, and Jaeger-LeCoultre, Laidet had founded his own affordable vintage-inspired brand William L. 1985, successfully raising €200,000 on Kickstarter and selling 100,000 watches before selling the company.​

Laidet’s subsequent projects demonstrated his ability to revive heritage brands authentically. He had successfully relaunched Nivada Grenchen, creating faithful re-editions of classic models that resonated with collectors. He had also acquired and revitalized Excelsior Park, another dormant chronograph specialist. His approach emphasized respect for original designs, accurate proportions, and period-appropriate specifications rather than attempting radical reinterpretation.​

For Vulcain, Laidet advocated a focused strategy: leverage genuine heritage through careful re-editions, maintain accessible pricing relative to competitors, and pursue strategic partnerships that reinforce brand values. The relaunch would center on the Cricket in historically accurate sizes (36mm and 39mm), following the growing trend toward smaller, vintage-proportioned cases.​

In September 2022, Vulcain unveiled its new collection with two distinct Cricket dial designs:​

Cricket Tradition: Applied Arabic numerals and arrow indices surrounding the dial, paired with thin dauphine hands in polished metal (no luminous material). The design emphasizes elegant restraint, with simplified alarm and minute tracks using 10, 30, and 50 numerals to mark alarm times. Available in black/gold, eggshell/gold, and black/silver dial configurations.​

Cricket Classique: Sectorized dial with painted Arabic numerals and luminous Alpha hands, creating a slightly sportier, tool-watch aesthetic. Available in light brown (resembling aged patina), black with white/blue accents, or black with khaki accents.​

Both designs are offered in 36mm (CHF 3,800 / $3,800) and 39mm (CHF 4,400 / $4,400) stainless steel cases. Case height measures 12.8-13.1mm depending on variant. The cases feature polished finishing with a planned satin-finished bezel and caseback on production models. The 36mm version uses 18mm lugs, while the 39mm employs 20mm.​

Limited edition salmon dial variants of both Tradition and Classique were produced in runs of 50 pieces each, available in both sizes. These launch editions featured a subtle pink-bronze sheen that proved popular with collectors.​

Technical Foundation: The Reborn V-10

The heart of the modern Cricket remains the V-10 caliber, a direct descendant of the 1947 Caliber 120. This 12-ligne (approximately 27mm) hand-wound alarm movement measures 28mm in diameter and stands 5.6mm tall. Comprising 165 components and 25 jewels, the V-10 operates at 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5Hz), intentionally maintaining the slow, traditional beat rate of the original.​

The dual-barrel architecture remains fundamental: one barrel powers the going train, providing 52 hours of power reserve, while the independent alarm barrel drives the chiming mechanism for approximately 20 seconds. Winding requires rotating the crown clockwise for the alarm and counterclockwise for the movement, the reverse of typical hand-wound watches.​​

Setting the alarm involves pushing the pump-style pusher at 2 o’clock, which releases the crown. The alarm hand can then be rotated to the desired time on the peripheral track marked in ten-minute intervals. The movement is not hackable and hands can only be advanced, not reversed, maintaining characteristic limitations of the original design.​​

The movement incorporates the Exactomatic system, Vulcain’s patented device that equalizes friction on the balance wheel axis in all positions by modifying the Incabloc endstones. This provides more consistent amplitude across positions, improving accuracy and reliability when worn. Decoration includes nickel-plated surfaces, heat-blued screws, and skeletonized ratchet wheels.​

The alarm mechanism consists of a hammer striking a pin positioned just above the balance wheel. When activated, this generates the characteristic “brrrrr” sound reminiscent of a cricket’s chirp (or, as some suggest, a cicada). The exterior caseback acts as a resonance chamber, amplifying the sound. Optional sapphire display casebacks allow observation of the dual barrels switching as the crown is rotated between positions.​​

Expanded Collections: Beyond the Cricket

While the Cricket alarm watches anchor Vulcain’s modern identity, the brand has expanded into complementary collections that leverage other aspects of its heritage.

Cricket Nautical Heritage (2023)

Recognizing the significance of the 1961 diving alarm watch, Vulcain faithfully recreated the Cricket Nautical in 2023. The modern version measures 42mm in diameter and 17.5mm in thickness, matching the original’s substantial dimensions. The case provides 300-meter water resistance through the signature triple caseback construction that enables underwater sound transmission.​

The dial features the Keller-Bühlmann decompression scale visible through an aperture, just as the original did. The rotating inner dial, controlled by the 4 o’clock crown, allows divers to set decompression parameters based on planned depth and duration. The main crown at 2 o’clock winds the movement and sets the time, while the pusher between them controls the alarm function.​

Powered by the hand-wound V-10 caliber, the modern Nautical faithfully replicates the original’s technical approach while incorporating modern sapphire crystals and contemporary finishing. Pricing ranges from CHF 4,200 to CHF 4,400 depending on caseback choice.​

In 2024, Vulcain collaborated with New York design studio Massena LAB on a limited edition of 25 pieces. The Nautical Legacy Massena LAB features a rich chocolate-brown dial with brushed finish, completely redesigned hands (baton-style hours, large arrowhead minutes, red alarm arrow, lollipop center seconds), and patina-like beige luminous material. Paired with a specific rubber strap and priced at $4,950, this collaboration brought vintage tropical aesthetics to Vulcain’s most technical model.​

Skindiver Nautique (2023)

Acknowledging Vulcain’s broader diving watch heritage beyond the Cricket Nautical, the brand introduced the Skindiver Nautique in January 2023. This 38mm steel diver represents a more accessible entry point, measuring 12.2mm thick with 200-meter water resistance. The design references Vulcain skin divers from the 1960s but opts for a cleaner, more wearable interpretation rather than literal vintage recreation.​

The Skindiver Nautique features a fluted rotating bezel with ceramic insert, domed sapphire crystal, and a choice of dial colors including black, blue, brushed blue, and bright orange. The hands and indices use Super-LumiNova in either crisp white or aged-effect yellowed tone depending on dial choice.​

Unlike the Cricket models, the Skindiver Nautique employs the robust ETA 2824 automatic movement, offering 38 hours of power reserve. This choice keeps pricing accessible while ensuring long-term serviceability. The watch is available on leather, rubber, or a vintage-style stainless steel bracelet, with pricing from $1,640 (strap) to $1,920 (bracelet).​

In 2024, Vulcain expanded the Skindiver Nautique range with new colorways: fir green and orange dials in steel (€1,610), a blue dial in yellow gold-plated steel (€1,990), and a black dial in bronze (€2,150). These bolder configurations demonstrated Vulcain’s willingness to embrace contemporary tastes while maintaining vintage-inspired aesthetics.​

Chronograph 1970’s

Honoring Vulcain’s chronograph heritage, the Chronograph 1970’s collection features hand-wound chronographs powered by the Sellita SW510 M BH movement. This 23-jewel caliber beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour and provides a comfortable 63-hour power reserve. The design deliberately evokes 1970s chronograph aesthetics with period-appropriate proportions and dial layouts.​

50s Presidents Monopusher

The 50s Presidents Chronograph Heritage pays tribute to Vulcain’s connection with Spanish football, specifically coach Francisco Bru of Real Madrid, who credited his Vulcain chronograph with helping train the team that won the 1934 Spanish Championship. This monopusher chronograph features throwback styling with chronometer certification, continuing Vulcain’s tradition of precision timing instruments.​

Grand Prix Collection

The Grand Prix models reference Vulcain’s award-winning history at international exhibitions, offering dress watch elegance with the brand’s signature quality and finishing.​

Manufacturing and Distribution

Under current ownership, Vulcain operates from its Le Locle facility at Chemin des Tourelles 4. The manufacture maintains partnerships with Swiss suppliers for component production while retaining critical expertise in alarm mechanism assembly and regulation. CEO Carla Duarte has emphasized the importance of preserving in-house knowledge of the Cricket caliber, ensuring continuity of this unique technical competency.​

The brand has pursued a hybrid distribution strategy combining direct-to-consumer e-commerce through vulcain.ch with selective retail partnerships. Major retailers including Harrods carry the brand, providing physical access in key markets. The 2022 relaunch included a completely redesigned website with direct purchasing capability, making Vulcain accessible to international collectors.​

Guillaume Laidet’s consulting role extends beyond product development to distribution strategy, leveraging his experience building retail networks for Nivada Grenchen and Excelsior Park. The approach emphasizes quality over quantity, seeking retailers who understand the brand’s heritage and can articulate its value to collectors.​

Market Position and Collecting Perspective

Vintage Vulcain watches occupy an interesting position in today’s collector market. The brand’s relative obscurity compared to Omega, Rolex, or even Jaeger-LeCoultre means prices remain accessible, offering collectors access to genuine horological innovation without premium pricing.​

Vintage Cricket Models (Cal. 120)

Original Cricket watches from the late 1940s through 1960s represent the most historically significant Vulcain pieces. These typically measure 34-36mm, with statuesque lugs providing substantial wrist presence despite modest diameters. Market values range from approximately $1,000 for common variants to $2,500 for exceptional examples with pristine original dials and cases.​

Collectors should prioritize originality: unpolished cases, original radium-lumed dials with natural patina, and correctly functioning Caliber 120 movements with characteristic dual-barrel winding action. The alarm functionality should be tested, as the mechanism may require service after decades of dormancy. Parts availability for Caliber 120 is generally good, as the modern V-10 shares many components with the original.​​

Cricket Calendar (Cal. 401/402)

These date-equipped variants from the late 1950s and 1960s appeal to collectors seeking additional functionality. However, the single-barrel design and shorter alarm duration mean they command lower prices than Cal. 120 models, typically $1,500 to $2,500 depending on condition. Parts availability for Caliber 401/402 is more challenging, as these movements were less common and modern production does not support them.​

Cricket Golden Voice

Ladies’ and small men’s Golden Voice models represent exceptional value. Despite incorporating the same dual-barrel alarm complication as larger Crickets, Golden Voice watches in 14-karat gold cases sell for $1,500 to $3,000, a fraction of what comparable complicated gold watches from recognized brands command. The 18-karat gold caseback’s acoustic properties and vulnerability to damage make condition assessment critical.​

Cricket Nautical

Original 1961-era Cricket Nautical models are rare and command premium prices, typically $3,000 to $6,000 depending on condition and dial configuration. The decompression scale’s complexity and the triple caseback construction make authentication important. Later reissues from the PMH/Excellence Holding era (2000s-2010s) are more accessible, generally $2,500 to $4,500.​

Modern Vulcain

Current production Cricket models from the 2022+ relaunch represent accessible entry points to the Vulcain experience. At CHF 3,800-4,400 ($3,800-4,400), these watches offer genuine Swiss manufacture movements with in-house alarm complications at prices lower than many three-hand watches from larger brands. The authenticity of the heritage, faithfulness to historical proportions, and quality of execution make these watches genuinely competitive in the $3,000-5,000 segment.​

The Skindiver Nautique at $1,640-1,920 provides an even more accessible Vulcain ownership experience, though without the signature alarm complication.​

Legacy and Assessment: The Watch That Thinks

Vulcain’s 167-year history encompasses periods of brilliant innovation, corporate consolidation, near extinction, and multiple resurrections. The brand’s fundamental contribution to horology remains beyond dispute: the Cricket represented the first truly functional mechanical alarm wristwatch, solving acoustic and mechanical challenges that had defeated previous attempts. This achievement demonstrated that complications could extend beyond traditional chronographs and calendars to genuinely practical applications for modern life.​

The Presidential associations, while somewhat fortuitous, validated the Cricket’s practical utility and cultural resonance. When busy world leaders chose to wear Crickets and credited them with helping manage demanding schedules, it confirmed that Vulcain had created more than a novelty. The watch actually worked as advertised, reliably chiming reminders in boardrooms, on aircraft, and in hotel rooms worldwide.​

The Cricket Nautical extended this practical innovation into extreme environments, demonstrating that careful engineering could adapt the alarm complication for professional diving. The collaboration with Hannes Keller and validation by Jacques Cousteau positioned Vulcain alongside specialized tool watch manufacturers serving genuine professional needs rather than merely marketing sporting associations.​

The quartz crisis and subsequent decades tested Vulcain’s resilience. The brand survived, unlike countless prestigious names extinguished during that period, but required multiple ownership changes and near-death experiences before finding stable footing. The current incarnation under Promobe ownership, guided by Duarte and Laidet, represents the most thoughtful revival to date: focused on core strengths, respectful of heritage, accessible in pricing, and technically authentic.​

Challenges remain. The brand operates at small scale with limited watchmaking staff. Distribution remains nascent compared to established competitors. Brand awareness outside collector circles is modest despite presidential pedigree. The alarm complication, while unique, appeals to a niche audience rather than the mass market.​

However, these limitations also represent opportunities. Small scale enables agility and direct connection with collectors. The focused product range avoids the bloat and confusion plaguing larger brands. The alarm complication provides genuine differentiation in a crowded market. Presidential associations offer a compelling story that resonates particularly well in the crucial American market.

For collectors and enthusiasts, Vulcain represents an authentic alternative to mainstream Swiss brands. These are watches with legitimate technical innovation, fascinating history, and accessible pricing. A vintage Cricket offers ownership of the world’s first functional alarm wristwatch. A modern Cricket provides continuation of a 78-year horological tradition through movements that remain fundamentally true to the 1947 original. The Nautical represents one of the most focused, specialized tool watches available today.

As Vulcain enters its second decade of modern revival, the trajectory appears promising. The brand has found its identity: alarm specialist with presidential heritage, offering technically authentic watches at fair prices. The partnership between Promobe’s resources, Duarte’s leadership, and Laidet’s strategic vision provides stability and direction. The expanding product range maintains focus while addressing different market segments.

The Cricket’s signature sound, that distinctive “brrrrr” that reminded President Johnson of his appointments and President Truman of photo sessions, continues to chirp on collectors’ wrists. Seventy-eight years after Paul Langevin’s cricket-inspired insight, Vulcain remains the watchmaker that makes timepieces think, remember, and quite literally speak. In an industry often dominated by empty heritage claims and manufactured nostalgia, Vulcain offers something increasingly rare: genuine innovation with unbroken technical continuity, accessible to collectors willing to venture beyond the obvious choices,