Jewels

Synthetic gemstones, typically rubies or sapphires, used in a watch movement to reduce friction between moving parts. These jewels act as bearings for the pivots of gears and other components, minimizing wear and ensuring smooth, long-term operation of the movement.

Key aspects of jewels in watchmaking:

  • Purpose: They reduce friction at high-stress points, such as the escapement and gear train, improving accuracy and durability.
  • Material: Made of synthetic corundum, these jewels are highly resistant to heat and wear.
  • Types: Commonly used jewels include pivot jewels, hole jewels, and cap jewels, each serving specific functions within the movement.

The number of jewels in a movement is often a mark of its complexity. Standard mechanical watches use around 17 jewels, while high-complication watches may contain 30 or more. While some manufacturers highlight jewel count as a selling point, it’s the proper use of jewels—not just the quantity—that ensures a high-quality movement.