Movado 19038

The Movado 19038 is a highly regarded vintage chronograph produced predominantly during the 1950s. Its significance stems from the combination of the innovative, in-house developed Movado Caliber M95 manual-wind movement and a robust, water-resistant case supplied by the famed casemaker François Borgel (FB). Key features include the M95’s pioneering modular construction (the first of its kind, simplifying servicing) and its unique inverted pusher function (bottom pusher for start/stop, top for reset). The high-quality Borgel case, often featuring distinctive faceted lugs and a screw-down decagonal back, earned the watch its “Sub-Sea” designation, indicating enhanced durability. Typically measuring 34.5mm to 35mm in diameter, the Ref. 19038 embodies classic mid-century tool watch design with various dial executions (often silvered with applied markers) and characteristic “snake” or “kris” hands on sub-dials. It represents a period when Movado competed at the highest levels of Swiss watchmaking and is highly collectible due to its technical innovation, manufacturing provenance (sharing a casemaker with Patek Philippe), aesthetic appeal, and relative rarity in excellent condition.  

Specifications

(Note: Dimensions like diameter, thickness, and lug-to-lug can have minor variations reported across sources due to measurement techniques or slight production variances over the years.)

Variations and Key Features

The Movado Ref. 19038, while consistent in its core reference, showcases the nuances typical of mid-century watch production, particularly in its case and dial details. It belongs to the first generation of Movado chronographs featuring the Caliber M95 movement housed in a water-resistant François Borgel case.  

Movement (Caliber M95):

• Type: Manually wound, three-register chronograph.  
• Construction: Pioneering modular design developed with Frédéric Piguet, allowing the chronograph mechanism to be easily removed for servicing (often cited as the first modular chronograph).  
• Function: Unique inverted pusher operation – bottom pusher starts/stops, top pusher resets. Features running seconds (often 9 o’clock), 60-minute counter (often 3 o’clock – unusual for the era), and 12-hour counter (often 6 o’clock).  
• Jewels: Typically 17 jewels.  
• Reputation: Considered robust and reliable when properly maintained.  

Case (François Borgel / Taubert & Fils):

• Material: Primarily stainless steel for Ref. 19038.  
• Water Resistance: Enhanced “Sub-Sea” water resistance achieved via a patented decagonal screw-down caseback. Borgel was renowned for waterproof case innovations.  
• Lugs: Distinctive, sharp, multi-angled faceted lugs are a key identifier of this first generation (-38 series).  
• Bezel: Features an attractive stepped bezel design.  
• Pushers: Original examples typically have large, “fat” pump-style pushers.  
• Crown: Often unsigned and relatively low-profile on earlier examples.  
• Finishing: High-quality construction, sometimes featuring original vertical brushing on the case middle. The FB stamp inside the caseback signifies quality.  

Dial, Hands, and Aesthetics:

• Layout: Classic three-register chronograph layout.  
• Colors: Commonly silvered or white matte dials.  
• Markers: Often applied, featuring Arabic numerals or geometric shapes (arrowheads, dots), sometimes in contrasting rose gold.  
• Scales: Tachymeter scale typically printed on the periphery, sometimes in a contrasting color like blue. Red accents might appear on minute tracks or hands.  
• Hands: Main hands can be dauphine or sword style. Sub-dial hands are often the characteristic Movado “kris” or “snake” shape, though standard straight hands (especially for running seconds) are also correct.  
• Lume: Original lume was radium-based, leading to desirable patina (cream, yellow, caramel) on well-preserved examples.  
• Signatures: “Switzerland” often printed at the bottom. The applied ‘M’ logo generally appears only on the latest examples from this reference (post-1959 introduction).  

Context and Collectibility

• Generation: Ref. 19038 belongs to the first generation of FB-cased M95s, distinct from later -58 and -68 series with different case/bezel designs.  
• Nomenclature: Correctly termed “Sub-Sea,” distinct from the later “Super Sub Sea” models which used different cases and often Zenith/Martel movements.  
• Appeal: Highly collectible due to the innovative M95 movement, prestigious Borgel case (shared with Patek Philippe), strong mid-century aesthetics, and Movado’s historical standing. Condition and originality are paramount for value.