Omega 3999 SC

The Omega 3999 SC is a distinctive vintage timepiece produced for a relatively brief period, primarily between 1959 and 1962. Its most notable characteristic is its square, or “Tank”-style, case, a departure from Omega’s more common round designs of the era. The “SC” in its reference signifies “Seconde Centrale” (Center Seconds), highlighting a key feature of its automatic movement . This model housed Omega’s newer generation Caliber 570 or 571 automatic movements, which featured a more efficient full-rotor winding system compared to earlier “bumper” automatics. Offered in various materials including stainless steel, gold-plate, and solid 14k or 18k gold , the Reference 3999 SC often featured elegant silver or champagne dials with applied markers and Dauphine hands. Its significance lies in representing Omega’s design experimentation during the late 1950s and early 1960s, offering a sophisticated dress watch aesthetic with modern automatic mechanics in a less common form factor. Its relative scarcity compared to round Omega models of the same period contributes to its collectibility today.  

Specifications

Variations and Key Features

The Omega Reference 3999 SC, produced between approximately 1959 and 1962, is characterized by its elegant square case and automatic movement. Several variations and specific features define this model:

Case:

• Shape and Style: The most distinctive feature is its square or “Tank”-style case, offering a sophisticated alternative to Omega’s more common round watches of the period.  
• Lugs: Often features sharp, faceted lugs that slope downwards, enhancing its geometric design.  
• Bezel: Some examples exhibit a stepped bezel, adding a layer of visual complexity.  
• Case Back: Typically a snap-on case back, common for dress watches of this era not prioritizing high water resistance.  
• Materials:
  • Stainless Steel: A durable and classic option.  
  • Gold Plated: Often 40-micron gold plating for a luxurious appearance.  
  • Solid Gold: Available in 14k or 18k yellow or rose gold, with hallmarks typically found inside the case back or discreetly on the case exterior.  
• Crown: Usually signed with the Omega logo.  

Dial:

• Colors: Predominantly silver or champagne.  
• Finishes: A variety of finishes were offered, including factory silver , brushed silver , vertical brushing , sunburst , and occasionally a distinctive chequered pattern.  
• Hour Markers: Typically applied stick or baton markers, in silver or gold tones to complement the case material. Some examples featured black onyx inlays within the markers.  
• Branding and Text: An applied Omega logo is usually found below 12 o’clock. Dial text commonly includes “Omega,” “Automatic,” and “SWISS MADE” at the 6 o’clock position.  
• Details: Some dials incorporate crosshair detailing for a subtle technical aesthetic.  

Hands:

• Style: Most commonly, elegant Dauphine-style hands are used, often matching the case material. These hands sometimes feature black lacquer infills, coordinating with the hour markers.  

Crystal:

• Material: Acrylic (Plexiglass) was standard for the era.  
• Original Detail: Original crystals often feature a tiny, embossed Omega logo in the center, a detail valued by collectors.  

Movement (Calibers 570 & 571):

• Type: These models are powered by Omega’s Caliber 570 or 571, which are automatic, full-rotor movements with efficient bidirectional winding.  
• Functions: The primary function indicated by “SC” is the center sweep second hand.  
• Frequency: Both calibers operate at 19,800 vibrations per hour (vph).  
• Jewels: Caliber 571 is noted as having 24 jewels. Caliber 570 is believed to have 17 jewels.  
• Features: These movements typically include Incabloc shock protection and a pinned regulator.  

Reference Suffixes:

• The presence of suffixes like 3999-1 SC, 3999-2 SC, up to 3999-5 SC, and 3999 SC-61 indicates minor sequential updates or variations during the model’s production run. These could involve subtle changes in case finishing, dial details, or movement batches.  

Additional Information

“SC” Designation: The “SC” in the reference 3999 SC stands for “Seconde Centrale,” which translates from French to “Center Seconds” or “Sweep Seconds” . This was a significant feature in an era when many watches, especially dress models, still utilized subsidiary seconds dials. Highlighting the center seconds function underscored the modern automatic movement within.

Historical Context and Model Family: The Omega 3999 SC was produced during a dynamic period for Omega, from roughly 1959 to 1962. This was after the launch of their famed “Professional” line (Speedmaster, Seamaster 300, Railmaster in 1957) and while the Constellation series was a flagship for chronometer precision. The 3999 SC, with its distinct square case, appears to have been positioned as a stylish dress watch offering the convenience of a modern automatic movement. While not always explicitly part of a named collection in all marketing, it is frequently associated with the Omega Genève line by collectors and vintage watch resources. The Genève line, initially known for high-quality manual movements in the 1950s, evolved to include a broader range of models, including automatics, in the 1960s. The 3999 SC fits this evolving profile, catering to a segment that appreciated contemporary mechanics in a non-traditional (for Omega) case shape.  

Collectibility: The Omega 3999 SC is considered a relatively uncommon vintage Omega, especially when compared to the high-volume production of round Seamaster and Constellation models from the same era. Its distinctive square “Tank” design, the quality of the Caliber 570/571 automatic movements, and its limited production window contribute to its appeal among collectors. Condition, originality (especially of the dial and signed components like the crown and crystal), and case material (solid gold versions being more valuable) are key factors in determining its market value.