Omega Constellation 168.005

The Omega Constellation reference 168.005 was produced primarily between circa 1962 and 1969. This model holds considerable significance as a quintessential example of Omega’s high-precision watchmaking during the 1960s. It was a flagship model within the esteemed Constellation line, which was renowned for its officially certified chronometer movements. The 168.005 is particularly celebrated for its distinctive design elements, most notably the iconic multi-faceted “Pie-Pan” dial and the uniquely sculpted “Dog-Leg” lugs. It represents a period of transition in Omega’s design language, bridging the classic, ornate styles of the early 1960s with the sleeker aesthetics that emerged later in the decade. Its combination of technical excellence, elegant design, and robust construction makes it a highly sought-after piece among vintage watch collectors today.

Specifications

Key Details and Variations

Variations:

• Dial Variations:
  • “Pie-Pan” Dial: The most iconic style, featuring a raised central section and 12 downward-sloping facets. This design creates a distinctive play of light and shadow.
  • Flat/Sunburst Dials: Later models within the 168.005 production run also featured flat or subtly sunburst-finished dials, reflecting a shift towards simpler aesthetics.
  • Colors: Common dial colors included Silver, White, Champagne, Gold, and Black. Silver dials could patinate to a champagne hue over time.
  • Crosshair Dials: A sought-after variation featuring fine horizontal and vertical lines intersecting at the dial’s center.
• Case Material Variations:
  • Stainless Steel: A popular and durable option.
  • Solid Gold: Available in 18k yellow and rose gold, with rare instances of white gold.
  • Gold-Cap: A layer of gold (often 14k) bonded over a stainless steel case, offering a gold appearance at a more accessible price.
• Movement Variations:
  • Caliber 561: Used in earlier 168.005 models (c. 1962-1967). Features a semi-quickset date (hands cycled between ~9 PM and 12 AM).
  • Caliber 564: Used in later 168.005 models (c. 1966-1969). Features a true quickset date (date advanced by repeatedly pulling the crown to the second position). Both are 24-jewel automatic chronometer movements operating at 19,800 vph with a ~50-hour power reserve.

Correct Dial:

• Original dials, whether “Pie-Pan” or flat, are characterized by high-quality applied elements.
• These include the applied Omega ‘Ω’ logo, an applied five-pointed Constellation star (typically above 6 o’clock), and printed text such as “Omega Automatic,” “Chronometer Officially Certified,” and “Constellation” in script.
• Hour markers are typically applied, faceted batons. These may feature black enamel or onyx inlays, especially in later examples. Some dials also incorporate small tritium lume plots or pips for low-light visibility, often placed just outside the main hour markers.
• The condition of the original dial finish is paramount for collectors; refinished dials significantly impact value.

Correct Hands:

• Hands are typically elegant dauphine shapes or simple baton/stick styles.
• They often match the hour markers, featuring facets, inlays (like onyx), or lume, consistent with the dial’s design.
• Originality and condition of the hands are key assessment points.

Correct Case:

• The case is fundamentally round with a fixed bezel.
• The most distinctive feature is the “Dog-Leg” lugs: angular, geometric, and faceted, often executed by casemaker SGR. The sharpness of these facets is a crucial indicator of condition, as over-polishing can soften these lines.
• The caseback is a screw-down type, vital for protecting the chronometer movement. It prominently features an embossed or engraved medallion of the Geneva Observatory with eight stars above it.
  • On solid gold models, this medallion is also solid gold.
  • On stainless steel and gold-capped models, the medallion is gold-plated brass.
• Typical dimensions are 34-35mm in diameter, 10-12mm in thickness, 18mm lug width, and 42-44mm lug-to-lug.

Correct Crystal:

• The original crystal is a domed Plexiglass (acrylic).
• A key detail for originality is a tiny, embossed Omega ‘Ω’ logo in the center of the crystal’s underside, visible under magnification.
• While most were standard domes, rare variations with an integrated cyclops date magnifier might exist.

Correct Crown:

• Two primary original crown types are associated with the 168.005:
  • Decagonal Crown: A thicker, 10-sided crown with the raised Ω logo on its flat outer surface. This is more common on earlier examples.
  • Round Knurled Crown: A thinner, round crown with a finely knurled edge for grip, potentially appearing on later examples.
• All original crowns should be signed with the Omega ‘Ω’ logo.

Additional Details

Market Value & Desirability: The Omega Constellation 168.005 is a highly collectible vintage watch. Current market prices typically range from approximately $1,300 to $5,800 USD, with an average around $3,100. However, prices can vary significantly based on several factors. Solid gold models command higher prices than steel or gold-capped versions. The “Pie-Pan” dial configuration is generally more sought after and valued than flat dials. Condition is paramount, with unpolished cases retaining sharp lug facets, original dials, hands, crowns, and crystals being highly prized. The presence of the original box and papers, which is rare (most listings are “watch only”), adds a substantial premium.

Key collectibility factors include:

• Iconic Design: The “Pie-Pan” dial and “dog-leg” lugs are instantly recognizable and aesthetically celebrated.
• Chronometer Heritage: The certified chronometer status of the Cal. 561 and 564 movements underscores Omega’s commitment to precision.
• Originality: Untouched dials, original components, and minimal case polishing are highly valued.
• Desirable Variations: Stainless steel models are popular, rare materials like white gold command premiums, and features like crosshair dials or original “Beads of Rice” bracelets enhance appeal.

Production & Evolution: The reference 168.005 was introduced as part of Omega’s new 6-digit numbering system around 1962-1963, succeeding earlier references like the 14902 (date) and 14900 (no-date, which became 167.005) that shared the same “dog-leg” case design. The production of the 168.005, powered by the Cal. 561 and later the Cal. 564 (with its quickset date introduced in 1966), continued until approximately 1969. This reference represents a transitional period in Omega’s design, moving from the ornate “Pie-Pan” dials towards the flatter dials that characterized the subsequent “C-Shape” Constellations introduced in 1964. Some Cal. 561 movements destined for the US market bear the “OXG” import code. The Observatory medallion on the caseback, with its eight stars, symbolizes Omega’s eight chronometry records and is a hallmark of the Constellation line’s precision pedigree.