Don't miss the next drop
For the uninitiated, Movado might bring to mind modern fashion watches, but the vintage reality is entirely different. In the mid-20th century, Movado was a true manufacture, producing in-house movements and partnering with the finest case makers in Switzerland. This Reference 16291 is a testament to that golden era, combining a robust bumper automatic movement with a case pedigree that rivals Patek Philippe.
The most significant aspect of this watch is likely the case itself. Stamped with the legendary “FB” key inside the caseback, this case was manufactured by Taubert & Fils (formerly François Borgel), the same company responsible for the iconic waterproof cases of the Patek Philippe Reference 1463 and 565. Housed within this high-grade steel exterior is the Movado Caliber 224A, a “bumper” automatic movement. Unlike modern automatics with rotors that spin freely, this mechanism uses a weighted rotor that bumps back and forth against buffer springs, creating a unique tactile heartbeat that the wearer can actually feel on the wrist.
This specific example is defined by its incredibly warm character. The dial, originally a crisp cream, has developed a heavy, uniform “stardust” patina that covers the surface in a sea of champagne and ochre tones. The applied gold Arabic numerals and indices provide a sharp, metallic contrast to the aged background, while the date window at 3 o’clock adds practical utility. The “Switzerland” text at the bottom of the dial remains visible, anchoring the piece in its geographic heritage.
Condition-wise, this is a watch that wears its history with pride. The stainless steel case retains the distinct geometry of the Borgel design, though it shows scratches and wear consistent with decades of use. The movement is clean and showcases the high level of finishing Movado was known for, with perlage visible on the mainplate. A charming detail found on the inside of the caseback is the “hand” symbol holding a watch, a hallmark used to denote stainless steel (Inal) quality during this period. The watch is paired with a vintage stainless steel mesh bracelet that is perfectly in keeping with the period style.
We find this to be a compelling choice for the collector who appreciates the engineering of the past. It offers the rare combination of a Borgel case, an in-house bumper movement, and a dial that has aged into something entirely unique. It is a piece that feels alive on the wrist, offering a tactile and visual experience that modern watches simply cannot replicate.
