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In the 1990s, if you were a young professional or an aspiring diver, there was one watch on your radar: the Tag Heuer Professional. While the 1000 and 2000 series often get the glory, the 1500 Series (introduced around 1990/91) was the “elevated” choice. It took the rugged DNA of the deep divers and refined it with a slightly thinner profile, more intricate bezel detailing, and a dial execution that felt less “tool” and more “jewel.” It represents the sweet spot of Neo-Vintage collecting, a watch from the era when Tag Heuer was defining the luxury sports watch market for a new generation.
The Reference WD 1221-K-20 is the quintessential execution of this line. The “WD” prefix denotes the 1500 series, and this specific model is defined by its stunning blue dial. Depending on the light, it shifts from a deep navy to an electric azure, a dynamic effect often referred to as “Granite Blue” in catalogs due to its subtle texture. The gold-plated accents on the bezel riders, crown, and bracelet links add a touch of Wall Street flash that was de rigueur for the 90s, yet the 200-meter water resistance rating reminds you this is still a serious piece of kit.
This particular example has survived the decades in admirable condition. The dial is pristine, with the original tritium lume on the hour plots and Mercedes hands having aged to a soft, creamy tone. The sapphire crystal is scratch-free, ensuring the dial’s texture is always visible. The two-tone bracelet, often the first thing to show wear on these models, remains tight and secure, retaining the correct signed clasp. The quartz movement inside is a robust Swiss ETA-based caliber, offering “grab and go” reliability that mechanical vintage watches simply can’t match.
