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There are certain watches that represent a seismic shift in horological design, and the Universal Genève Polerouter is, without question, one of them. It is the watch that launched the career of the legendary Gérald Genta. Before he penned the Royal Oak and the Nautilus, it was this stunning, svelte design that put his name on the map. To hold a Polerouter is to hold the genesis of a genius.
The story is pure 1950s jet-age romance. In 1954, Scandinavian Airlines (SAS) inaugurated its pioneering polar route from Copenhagen to Los Angeles, a flight path that took its planes directly over the magnetic North Pole. They needed a watch for their pilots that was not only incredibly precise but also highly resistant to the powerful magnetic fields encountered at the top of the world. Their choice was this new watch from Universal Genève, initially named the Polarouter. The design, penned by a 23-year-old Genta, was an instant masterpiece, defined by its elegant twisted lugs and clean, functional dial. Inside beat the Caliber 215, a revolutionary automatic movement that utilized a “micro-rotor.” This ingenious design allowed for a much slimmer case profile than competing watches with bulky central rotors, a testament to mid-century engineering prowess.
This particular example, a Polerouter Jet Reference 215-9, is a truly fantastic and elegant expression of the lineage. Housed in a beautiful 34mm solid 18k yellow gold case, it elevates Genta’s utilitarian design to the realm of formalwear. The case appears strong, retaining the sharp, defining lines of those iconic lyre lugs that make the watch wear so beautifully on the wrist. The original gilt dial has aged to a gorgeous champagne hue, with the subtle cross-hair detail adding a touch of technical precision. Its applied gold indices and original dauphine handset are crisp and catch the light wonderfully. This is not a watch that shouts; it’s one that speaks with quiet confidence about its history.
