Rolex Explorer II 1655

The Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655 was produced from 1971 to 1985 and represents the inaugural model of the Explorer II line. Designed specifically for spelunkers and cave explorers, the 1655 introduced a fixed 24-hour bezel and an orange 24-hour hand to help distinguish day from night in low-light environments. It featured a 39 mm stainless steel Oyster case, a domed acrylic crystal, and was powered by the Rolex Caliber 1575 automatic movement, which included a hacking function. The case thickness measured approximately 13.5 mm, with a lug-to-lug distance of 47 mm and a lug width of 20 mm. The dial featured luminous tritium hour markers, thick painted indices, and was marked by a unique and highly legible design that earned the watch the nickname ‘Steve McQueen,’ despite no evidence he wore one. Over its production run, several dial variations emerged, including differences in font style, hand shape, and luminous material, with early examples now considered particularly collectible. While initially overlooked, the 1655 has since gained recognition for its distinctive aesthetic, tool-watch functionality, and place in Rolex’s evolution of purpose-driven designs. Today, it is highly sought after by collectors for its historical value and unmistakable design.