Omega Seamaster 14390

The Omega Seamaster 14390 is a vintage timepiece primarily produced between approximately 1959 and 1962. It holds significance as a classic dress watch from Omega’s esteemed Seamaster collection, embodying the elegant aesthetic of its era while carrying the collection’s heritage of robustness. Powered typically by the reliable manual-winding Omega Caliber 285 , the 14390 represents an interesting point in the Seamaster line’s evolution, maintaining a connection to the Seamaster’s refined origins with its typical 30-meter water resistance and often leather strap, contrasting with more tool-oriented dive watches of the period. Its enduring appeal lies in its refined design, dependable movement, and rich brand history.  

Specifications

Key Details & Variations

• Variations (Sub-References): The Seamaster 14390 encompasses several sub-references, often denoted by suffixes. These include CK 14390 (a foundational steel model from the 1959 international collection ), 14390-1 (early model ), 14390-2 , 14390-3SC , 14390-4-SC , 14390-6SC , 14390-7-SC , 14390-8 SC , and 14390-61-SC. Suffixes like “SC” might indicate “Seconde Centrale” (Center Seconds), consistent with the Caliber 285, though the exact meaning of all older 4-digit suffixes is not always definitively known. These variations typically point to minor differences in case, dial, or production batches rather than fundamental design changes.  
• Correct Dial: Original dials for the Seamaster 14390 commonly feature colors such as silver , light cream/champagne , white, or occasionally black. Finishes can include “linen” textures or sun-brushed silver. Applied hour markers, often baton-shaped, are typical. The dial script includes the “Omega” logo and name, and “Seamaster” script, sometimes with a distinctive “hanger S”. For luminescence, radium was originally used, which ages to a characteristic dark yellow, beige, or brownish color. A “SWISS MADE” marking is expected at the bottom.  
• Correct Hands: Hand styles vary, with dauphine , sword , and baton hands being prominent. If the dial has luminous plots, the hands should have corresponding luminous infill, matching the dial’s radium lume in material and aging.  
• Correct Case: The case is predominantly made of stainless steel. Dimensions are typically around 35mm in diameter (excluding crown) , with a lug-to-lug measurement of approximately 42mm to 44mm , an 18mm lug width , and a thickness of about 11mm to 11.5mm. A screw-in case back, often featuring the Seamaster Hippocampus logo, is standard. The inside case back should bear the Omega logo, reference number, and material stamps. Case maker marks like “CB” (Centrale Boîtes) or “HF” (Huguenin Frères) might be present.  
• Correct Crown: An authentic Seamaster 14390 should have an original, signed Omega crown with a logo style consistent with the late 1950s/early 1960s.  
• Correct Crystal: The original crystal was acrylic (plexiglass). Some original Omega acrylic crystals from this era featured a tiny, etched Omega logo in the center.  
• Movement: The watch is powered by the Omega Caliber 285, a manual-winding movement.  
• Original Strap/Bracelet: The Seamaster 14390 was predominantly sold on leather straps. Omega’s vintage database also lists “Bracelet (vintage)” as an option for the CK 14390. Some examples are found with, or are noted in listings as being associated with, Omega “rice link” or “Beads of Rice” style steel bracelets. Determining whether a specific bracelet was a factory option for a particular 14390 or a later, albeit period-correct, addition requires careful research.  

Additional Details

• Movement (Omega Caliber 285): The Caliber 285 belongs to Omega’s respected “30mm” family, derived from the famed 30T2. It is a 17-jewel manual-wind movement, typically operating at a frequency of 18,000 beats per hour and offering a power reserve of approximately 44 to 45 hours. Known for its reliability and relative slimness, it contributed to the 14390’s elegant case profile. Spare parts for the Caliber 285 are generally more accessible than for rarer movements, and any competent watchmaker with experience in vintage Omegas should be able to service it.  
• Market Valuation and Collectibility: The market price for an Omega Seamaster 14390 can vary significantly, generally ranging from a few hundred to over $2,000 USD. Value is heavily influenced by condition (cosmetic and mechanical), originality of all components (dial, hands, crown, crystal, movement), the rarity of specific sub-references or dial configurations, and the presence of original box and papers. While the base stainless steel 14390 is not exceptionally rare, examples in pristine, all-original condition are considerably harder to find and command premium prices. The Seamaster 14390 is a collectible vintage Omega, representing a classic design period and offering good potential for value retention or appreciation if well-preserved.  
• Authentication: Authenticating a Seamaster 14390 requires careful examination. The dial is a primary focus; it should be original, with crisp printing and correctly aged radium lume (often dark yellow, beige, or brownish). Redials often exhibit inconsistent fonts or poorly applied lume. Hands and the Omega-signed crown must be period-correct. The case should retain sharp edges (beware of over-polishing) , feature a well-defined Hippocampus logo on the case back , and have correct internal markings like the reference number, Omega logo, and material stamps. The movement must be the correct Caliber 285, with its serial number aligning with the watch’s production era. An original acrylic crystal might display a tiny, etched Omega logo in its center. It’s crucial to be vigilant against “Frankenwatches” assembled from non-original parts.  
• Ownership and Care: Despite its “Seamaster” name and original 30-meter water resistance rating , a vintage 14390 should be treated as not water-resistant today due to the age of its seals. Avoid all exposure to water. Regular servicing, perhaps every 3-5 years or when performance issues arise (like poor accuracy or reduced power reserve), is recommended. Clean the case gently with a soft, dry cloth; avoid harsh chemicals. Store the watch in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight and strong magnetic fields. Common vintage watch issues include wear on components, dried lubricants, and accuracy problems. The Caliber 285 is robust , but like any vintage movement, it can suffer from corrosion if moisture has ever entered the case. While some spare parts for the Caliber 285 can be found , sourcing specific new-old-stock (NOS) Omega parts can be challenging.  
• Contemporary Comparisons (Golden Era Context): In the late 1950s and early 1960s, the Seamaster 14390 was positioned alongside other notable Omega models. It shared characteristics with the Omega Seamaster 30, which often used similar Caliber 28x family movements and 35mm cases, emphasizing elegance and precision. Early Omega Seamaster DeVille models, introduced in 1960 as a dressier Seamaster variant before becoming a separate line, also featured manual-wind movements and comparable aesthetics. The Omega Geneve line of the era also offered classic dress watches, often with movements like the Caliber 601. The Seamaster 14390 distinguished itself by blending the Seamaster’s robust heritage with a refined, versatile style suitable for both professional and casual wear, contributing to its popularity.