Omega Seamaster 300 165.024

The Omega Seamaster 300 165.024 Ref. was introduced in the early 1960s (around 1962) and remained in production until approximately 1969. This full‑steel diver’s model succeeded the original “Big Triangle” CK2913 and was Omega’s flagship professional dive watch through the 1960s. Production numbers span serials from the low 20 millions (circa 1962) up into the 28–30 million range by 1969. (For reference, civilian 165.024 cases from the late 1960s may even bear a “-65” suffix, reflecting Omega’s batch production and assembly in later years). Throughout its run, the 165.024 remained the no‑date version of the second‑generation SM300 family (the date model was 166.024). After 1969 Omega replaced the second‑gen SM300s with more modern cases (reference 166.0322, 166.076, etc.), ending the 165.024 line.

Historical Significance and Context

By the late 1960s the 165.024 had earned a reputation as “THE Omega Seamaster 300” of its era. Collectors admire it as a true vintage dive watch icon, rivalling contemporaries like the Rolex Submariner 5513. It was worn by professional divers and saw military use – notably a special British Royal Navy contract. The military-issued “Big Triangle” versions (often with tritium dials) had a prominent “T” beneath the Ω logo and a special service serial number on the outside of the caseback. These Royal Navy pieces (highly rare and marked “T”) are especially coveted today. Throughout the 1960s, standard civilian 165.024 examples (with radium lume, no “T”) were still heavy‑duty dive tools, often showing heavy patina from real use. Omega’s policy at the time was pragmatic: parts were stock‑piled and used as needed, so cases, dials, hands and movements could span several years in manufacture. In sum, the 165.024 embodies the classic 1960s dive‑watch era – a thick steel case, bold markers, and robust automatic movement – and is seen as a collector’s classic.

Case Materials and Design Features

The 165.024 has a 42 mm stainless steel diver’s case (about 48 mm lug‑to‑lug) with an asymmetric profile and drilled lug holes for strap changes. The bezel is a broad stainless steel ring with a black aluminum insert; it rotates (60‑click bidirectional action) and carries lumed minute markers and a large luminous triangle at 12. Five bezel insert variants (differing mainly in font thickness and marker style) were issued over the production years, all considered original to the model. Later‑production 165.024s (c. 1967–69) adopted a wider triangle pip at 12 o’clock (the so‑called “big triangle” bezel). The screw‑down caseback is engraved with the Omega hippocampus (sea monster) emblem; around it reads “Certified High Pressure Waterproof” and “Seamaster”. (Early casebacks had rounded case edges, later ones more sharply angled – but all with the same logo layout) The crown on the right is signed with the Ω logo and came in two types: the original submersible “Naiad” self‑sealing crown (which tightens deeper under water) and a more conventional screw‑down diver’s crown introduced around 1967. Both versions provide solid 200+ m water resistance. The crystal is a domed hesalite (acrylic) with a slight magnification of the dial. Overall the design is pure 1960s tool‑watch: sturdy, functional, and uncluttered, with no crown guards and a straight 3, 6, 9, 12 dial layout.

Dial Variations (Color, Markers, Lume)

The standard dial for ref. 165.024 is matte black with large luminous indices. Hours 1,2,4,5,7,8,10,11 are marked by bold trapezoids or rectangles of lume; 6,9 and 3 are Arabic numerals; and 12 is a wide triangular marker. Originally the lume was radium (no “T” symbol on the dial) on civilian models. Some watches sold in the American market may also have used Omega’s Cal. 550 movement for import duty reasons, but the dials themselves remained black with radium. After Omega switched to tritium, later 165.024s (especially military-issue) were fitted with tritium-painted markers and carry a small “T” on either side of the 6 o’clock index. (The British Royal Navy versions notably have “T<100” or similar to denote tritium lume.) Aside from lume material, the only major dial design change was the “big triangle” at 12 introduced around 1967 – earlier bezels had a slimmer arrow. There were no color variants (all original dials are black) and no date window. Collectors also scrutinize dial details: originals have open (“serifed”) numerals at 6 and 9 and no minute‑marker “stubbies” under the hour markers (a common sign of fakery).

Calibers (Movements) Used

All authentic 165.024 watches use Omega’s 5.5‑series automatic movements. The civilian model was powered by caliber 552 (a 24,600 bph, 17‑jewel, self‑winding movement with central seconds and hack feature). On some early American-market pieces Omega installed the nearly identical cal. 550 (which was otherwise the same as 552) for U.S. import/tax reasons. (Aftermarket or later restorations sometimes present 165.024 cases with a caliber 563/565 movement – those belong to the date‑model 166.024 and are considered non-original in a no‑date watch.) No other movement was factory‑used in the no‑date 165.024; any example with a different movement is likely a frankenwatch. The 552/550 family is a robust, chronometer-grade movement and can be identified by its finishing and serial numbers (which fall in the mid 20-million range for the late 1960s pieces).

Types of Hands Used

Two primary hand sets are correct for ref. 165.024. Early examples (c. 1962–64) use “baton” or candlestick hour and minute hands: slim rectangular shafts with a broad luminous tip (similar to what Omega used on pre‑Speedmaster watches). The seconds hand on these is a straight needle with a small luminous “lollipop” at the tip. Around 1965 Omega shifted to “broad arrow” style hands: the hour hand becomes a wide sword shape (tapering to a fine tip), still filled with lume, while the minute hand remains a thick baton. These sword‑hour hands match those on contemporaneous Speedmasters, and they persist on later 165.024s and on the date 166.024. In practice, many 1964–66 pieces mix hands, since Omega used stock parts. A very rare variant (once thought a “franken” but later confirmed in a 1964 catalog) even shows the large dauphine hands of the first‑gen Seamaster 300 (CK-2913) on a 165.024. In summary: collectors expect a 165.024 to have either full‑lume baton hands (early) or the sword/hour + baton/minute set (later); any other style (or mismatched patina) is suspect.

Other Design and Technical Details

Bezel: The black aluminum insert has a luminous “pearl” triangle at 12 and minute graduations around. It is bi-directional with 60 distinct clicks (one per minute) – an unusual feature (most dive bezels of the era were unidirectional). The font of the numerals and markers on the bezel changed slightly over the years (Omega issued five known variants), but all are considered original for certain production batches Fake bezels are often caught by non-luminous painted numbers or incorrect fonts.

Crown: As noted, the crown type changed mid‑run. The Naiad crown (used until ~1967) has a sliding waterproof seal and requires no screwing; later models use a classic screw‑down crown. The crown is signed Ω. Early Naiads are thinner and have a smaller Ω-logo distance than the later screw crowns. A Nautilus safety lock crown (seen on some Speedmasters) was not used on the 165.024.

Caseback: All genuine 165.024s have the engraved hippocampus and wording as above. Notably, no military serials appear inside – only the outside of the caseback is etched on RN models. The caseback font is crisp; early backs (’62–’64) have rounded edges, later (’65–’69) have beveled edges, but the overall design remains the same. Any caseback spelling errors (e.g. “Certifed”) or incorrect typography is a red flag.

Bracelets/Straps: Original 165.024s could come on an Omega steel bracelet or on a leather strap. Genuine period Omega steel bracelets are rare today: the early 1506/16 (with orange-colored plaques) and later 1035/516 or 1039/516 were offered from 1964–1971. Many surviving watches wear modern straps or repro bracelets.

Reputation and Collectibility Among Enthusiasts

Today the 165.024 is one of Omega’s most sought-after vintage models. Its classic looks and historical cachet make it “particularly popular with collectors”. Even ordinary examples (no military marks) are fetching high prices: a decade ago they traded for a few thousand dollars, whereas now well-preserved pieces routinely go for tens of thousands. Mint or complete “full set” watches can exceed $30–40k. The rare British military versions (broad-arrow dial, RN markings) command still higher premiums. In short, the 165.024’s reputation is stellar: collectors prize its original patina and design integrity, but remain on guard for fakes.

Production Period: Circa 1962 through 1969.

Case: 42 mm stainless steel with broad, rounded lugs (drilled holes), asymmetrical diver’s shape; satin-brushed and polished finishes.

Movement: Automatic caliber 552 (rare U.S. market 550 version); no date.

Dial: Matte black with luminous hour markers – a large triangle at 12 and broad baton/arrow shapes (numerals at 3, 6, 9); luminous material was originally radium (no “T” on civilian dials) or tritium (marked “T” on military versions).

Hands: Two main styles – early “baton” (candlestick) hour/minute hands with luminous tips, later broad-arrow (sword) hour hand with baton minute hand. A rare early variant even used dauphine hands.

Bezel: Uni-directional (60‑click) black bezel insert with luminous triangle at 12; five known font/marker variants were used throughout the run.

Crown: Two types – a pre‑1967 Naiad self‑sealing crown and a later screw‑down diver’s crown (Naiads tighten on depth).

Caseback: Screw-down stainless back with engraved Ω hippocampus (sea monster) and wording “Certified High Pressure Waterproof” and “Seamaster.”

Lume Variants: Civilian dials used radium (no “T”); British military issued versions used tritium (dial marked “T”), and typically have a military serial on the caseback.