Rolex Explorer II 16550

The Rolex Explorer II ref. 16550 was produced from 1985 to 1989 and marked a major transitional phase for the Explorer II line. Replacing the 1655, this reference introduced significant upgrades including a larger 40 mm case, sapphire crystal, and an independently adjustable 24-hour hand—enhancing its functionality for travelers. The watch featured a fixed 24-hour bezel in brushed stainless steel and was powered by the Rolex Caliber 3085, which offered a true GMT function. The case thickness measured approximately 12.5 mm, with a lug-to-lug span of 47.5 mm and a lug width of 20 mm. The 16550 came with two dial options: black or white (cream), both with Mercedes hands and applied white gold hour markers. Early white dials are known to develop a creamy patina over time due to a paint defect, making those examples particularly collectible today. This reference served as the blueprint for modern GMT-capable Explorer II models and is viewed by collectors as a rare and pivotal transitional piece in the line’s evolution. Its short production run and dial variations contribute to its strong demand in the vintage Rolex market.