Zodiac Glorious Automatic Tuxedo Dial Ref. 688 Cal. 1361

Zodiac is frequently celebrated for its legendary Sea Wolf divers and Aerospace GMTs, but looking past their tool watch catalog reveals a treasure trove of mid-century creativity. In the 1950s and 60s, Zodiac was experimenting heavily with dial textures and case architectures, resulting in dress watches that were far from boring. This Reference 688 is a perfect example of that adventurous design ethos, combining a formal two-tone layout with a case shape that refuses to be standard. It captures the whimsy of the era, offering a wrist presence that is distinctly vintage and impossible to confuse with a modern reissue.

While many brands produced “Tuxedo” or bullseye dials, few executed them with this level of detail. The center section of the dial features a mesmerizing intricate honeycomb or waffle texture that catches the light in fascinating ways, providing a stark contrast to the smooth, brushed dark outer ring. This is framed by a gold-filled case with stylized, sculpted lugs that flair outwards, adding a touch of architectural flair to the silhouette. Inside beats the Zodiac Caliber 1361, a robust automatic movement that represents the golden era of Swiss mechanical production, complete with the brand’s signature high-grade finish on the rotor.

This specific example has lived a genuine life and wears its history openly. The dial shows a warm, honest patina with spotting throughout the textured center, reinforcing its vintage nature. The gold tone on the case, particularly on the high points of the lugs and bezel, displays visible wear, a common trait for watches of this age that were enjoyed rather than hidden away. The caseback remains sharp, with the reference numbers clearly visible, and the crystal has some crazing that adds to the distortions and warmth of the dial view. It is paired with a vintage-style black rally strap which leans into the sportier side of the two-tone design.

For the collector who loves texture and character, this Zodiac is a joy to wear. It sits in that sweet spot of being dressy enough for a suit but quirky enough for denim. It is a conversation starter, not because of its price tag, but because of its undeniable charm and the sheer audacity of that honeycomb dial. It serves as a reminder that vintage collecting is about discovering these unique, forgotten details that simply don’t exist in watchmaking today.