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In the vast landscape of mid-century horology, Bulova stands as a pillar of American style and Swiss precision. While brands like Rolex and Omega often dominate the conversation, Bulova was arguably the company putting reliable, stylish mechanical watches on more wrists than anyone else in the 1950s. This “Self-Winding” model is a charming reminder of that golden era, representing a time when a watch was designed to be both a daily companion and a piece of jewelry.
The late 1950s were a period of expressive design in the watch industry, moving away from the rigid utility of the war years into the flair of the Jet Age. This is immediately evident in the case architecture of this piece. Unlike the standard round cases of the day, this watch features incredible “fancy” sculpted lugs that flare outward, adding a touch of architectural elegance to the stainless steel profile. It is a design choice that elevates the watch from a simple timekeeper to a legitimate design object. Inside beats the Caliber 11AFAC, a workhorse automatic movement that helped democratize self-winding technology for the American public.
This specific example dates to 1959, confirmed by the “L9” date code stamped clearly on the caseback. While many dress watches from this period were gold-filled and prone to wearing through, this example is housed in solid stainless steel, ensuring it has remained crisp and durable over the decades. The dial features a classic layout with applied gold numerals at 12 and 6, interspersed with sharp diamond-shaped markers that catch the light beautifully.
The true character of this watch comes from its honest aging. The dial has developed a heavy, uniform “stardust” patina, a speckled pattern of oxidation that gives the face a warm, textured appearance which looks almost like parchment. We find this kind of aging to be incredibly appealing, as it softens the starkness of a white dial and proves the watch has lived a full life. The case retains its sharp lines, particularly on those complex lugs, and the acrylic crystal adds a vintage distortion that complements the overall aesthetic.
For the collector who enjoys nuance, this Bulova is a fantastic find. It combines the durability of a stainless steel case with the visual flair of 1950s lug design and a dial that is completely unique to this specific watch. It is a compelling value proposition that offers real history and distinct style without the pretension of more expensive Swiss marques.
