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Before they were known for their haute horlogerie and complex tourbillons, Girard-Perregaux was a formidable manufacture with a rich history of producing incredibly robust and high-quality timepieces for demanding environments. During the Second World War, this meant creating watches that could withstand the rigors of the battlefield. While many brands produced watches for the military, Girard-Perregaux created “military-style” watches that embodied the same spirit of durability and legibility, making them available to servicemen and discerning civilians alike. These early “Sea Hawk” models were conceived as tough, water-resistant watches long before the line evolved into the modern sports watch we know today.
This Sea Hawk, dating to circa 1943, is a breathtaking time capsule from the heart of the WWII era. It is, without question, one of the most compelling and beautifully aged watches of its kind we have ever seen. The 31mm stainless steel case, a common “officer’s” or “boy’s size” for the period, features a cold-rolled bezel and fixed lugs, a construction that maximized strength and simplicity. This was a watch built for purpose, not for pretense.
The dial is, quite simply, a masterpiece of natural aging. What was once likely a simple white or silver surface has, over 80 years, blossomed into a stunning “star-dusted” tropical patina. This heavy, speckled pattern is the result of the original lacquers and, most likely, the radioactive Radium lume interacting over decades. This is the kind of patina that collectors dream of; it is completely unique to this watch, a cosmic tapestry that cannot be faked or replicated. Upon this incredible backdrop rests a classic military layout: large, legible Arabic numerals and a subsidiary seconds register at 6 o’clock. The handset is perhaps the most evocative feature, blued steel “cathedral” hands, filled with original Radium lume that has aged to a dark, honest hue that perfectly complements the dial.
At its heart beats a high-grade, manual-wind Girard-Perregaux movement. As a true manufacture, GP produced their own calibers, and the movements from this era are known for their beautiful finishing and robust construction. This is not a generic ebauche, but a finely crafted engine from one of Switzerland’s great historical houses.
