Production Period: The Omega Dynamic Geneve “135.033” was introduced in the late 1960s – officially launched in 1968 – and remained in production through the early 1970s (roughly 1968–1972). It was part of Omega’s first-generation Dynamic line (sometimes called “Genève Dynamic”), an innovative series aimed at younger customers. The Dynamic was heralded in period marketing as “the first watch designed especially for the human wrist,” and Omega sold well over a million first-generation Dynamics between 1968 and 1972, underscoring its popularity and historic impact. (The Dynamic was even created in 1965 for an award competition in Geneva, with full public launch by 1968.)
Historical Significance: The Dynamic 135.033 exemplifies Omega’s experimental 1960s design philosophy. Its oval, ergonomic “wrist-hugging” case and integrated strap system marked a radical departure from conventional watches. The goal was a clean, futuristic look that fit the wrist’s shape – for example, the crown is set into the case to avoid digging into the wearer’s hand. Omega advertised that the tilted, off-center dial provided easier reading “for the pleasure of owning a watch unlike any other.” The Dynamic was introduced alongside models like the Chronostop to offer a quality, avant-garde alternative to cheap fashion watches. Its success – multi-million sales in just a few years – made it a beloved vintage icon. (Omega eventually revived the Dynamic name decades later, but the original 1960s/’70s “Dynamic I” models are the focus here.)
Case Materials and Design
- Materials: The case of Ref. 135.033 was primarily stainless steel. Omega’s archives list it as stainless steel (acier inoxydable). Some first-generation Dynamic watches were also offered with partial 18K gold plating (for example, a gold-capped or two-tone bezel variant), but solid gold was not typical for this model. Most surviving 135.033 examples are plain steel, though a few rare gold-plated versions (two-tone) have appeared in catalogs and sales listings.
- Case Style: The watch has a distinctive one-piece (“unishell” or monocoque) oval case about 41 × 36 mm (width by lug span). The case is opened from the front (the crystal) rather than by removing a separate back cover. A sloped, starburst-finished bezel surrounds the crystal, giving a sporty look. Early production examples (especially manual-wind versions) typically use the monocoque design, while automatic versions sometimes have a screw-in caseback integrated with a locking ring (to allow strap changes without a fixed lug set).
- Caseback and Straps: Instead of traditional lugs, the Dynamic used an integrated strap/bracelet system. A retaining ring on the caseback holds the strap or bracelet in place, creating a seam-free appearance. To change the strap, one unscrews this outer ring. The watch was originally offered with an integrated stainless-steel Omega bracelet that locks under the caseback, or with Omega-brand leather “Dynamic” straps. Importantly, only special Dynamic straps fit this case; normal straps will not attach. (Omega even included a special case-opening tool, and watchmakers call it the “Tool 107,” to open these cases.)
Dial Variations
The 135.033 featured a broad palette of dial styles – Omega produced over 20 different dial combinations during the first-generation Dynamic run. Known variations include:
- Colors: Black, silver/grey, white, blue, and grey-blue are documented dial colors for the 135.033. For example, vintage blue dials with matching or contrasting hands (baby-blue seconds or white markers) exist, as do “sector” dials.
- Patterns: A common motif was a two-tone “sector” dial (bicolor). In these, the dial is divided into inner and outer rings of contrasting shades (for example, a black center with a grey-silver periphery, or vice versa). Some dials have a printed outer minute track or “racing” style track around the edge. Other examples show a uniform sunburst finish (radial brushing) on a single-color dial, often found in metallic blue or silver. Omega’s archives note that “different styles” were available, indicating both plain and segmented designs.
- Hour Markers: Marker styles vary by dial. Many dials use printed black baton indices (especially on light or two-tone backgrounds). Others have applied polished metal markers (stainless steel) at each hour. Applied markers are often simple batons or wedge shapes. Some dials have luminous dots or pip markers at the tip of each baton for night visibility. In any case, the indices are generally long, slim rectangles aligned radially.
- Lume: Many dials have luminous material on the hands and at the hour markers. The extent of lume varies – some examples show fully filled baton hands and luminous hour pips, while others have more minimal lume. (Older lume will typically have turned cream-colored or tan with age.)
- Other details: Some rare variants include the date (at 3 o’clock) on automatic models, but no known first-gen 135.033 had a day-of-week; at most they had a quick-set date window. The subtext “Geneve” and “Dynamic” appear on the dial, and “Automatic” is added if it is an automatic model. Omega often signed the dial at 6 o’clock as well.
Calibers
Ref. 135.033 was produced with both manual-wind and automatic movements, depending on the sub-variant:
- Omega Caliber 601 (manual wind): Many 135.033 examples (especially early ones) use the 601 manual-winding movement. The Cal. 601 is a 17-jewel hand-wound caliber (slow-beat, introduced in 1962) that keeps time only (no date). These versions require winding by hand and have no date window. A period dealer listing explicitly notes “Powered by a 17 jewel Caliber 601 manual winding movement” for a 1969 135.033.
- Omega Caliber 552 (automatic): Some 135.033 watches have the Caliber 552, an automatic movement (25.5 mm diameter) with a date function. The Cal. 552 (19 jewels) was an Omega automatic movement used in mid-1960s models. For example, a known 1968 135.033 is listed as using an Omega Cal. 552 (automatic) with date.
- Omega Caliber 565 (automatic): Other 135.033 watches – especially later or higher-end examples – use the Caliber 565 automatic (24 jewels) movement. The 565 is essentially a variant of the 552 with quick-set date and extra jewels. The Hodinkee 1968 listing confirms a 135.033 with Cal. 565, and a 1969 ads mention “Cal. 565.” These 565-equipped models have the date and self-winding rotor (and “Automatic” text on the dial).
All of these movements were Swiss-made and well-regarded for accuracy. Only the automatic versions have a date complication (no known 135.033 has a day-of-week display).
Hands and Markers
The style of hands on the 135.033 matches its bold, modern look:
- Hour/Minute Hands: These are typically broad baton or sword-style hands in polished steel (usually with a central strip of luminous material). In some variants they are slightly tapered (wider toward the tip). Period descriptions call them “steel baton hands” or “sword hands,” often with aged tritium lume. The luminous portion often matches the aged patina of the dial markers. Hands are usually silver in color (matching the case) with a bright finish.
- Seconds Hand: The central seconds hand is usually thin but often in a vivid color for contrast. Common colors seen are bright orange or light blue, which pop against darker dials. For example, one 1969 sector-dial Dynamic is noted for an “orange colored center seconds hand,” while another blue-dial example has a baby-blue seconds. Some white or plain steel seconds hands exist on lighter dials, but colored seconds appear frequently.
- Luminous Treatment: Both the hour/minute and sometimes the hour indices carry luminous paint. The second hand is never luminous; its bright color suffices. With age, the lume on hands and dial indices often turns creamy.
Other Notable Variations and Features
- Integrated Strap/Bracelet: As mentioned, the 135.033’s case has no standard lugs. It originally came on either a special Omega Dynamic steel bracelet integrated into the case back, or a custom Omega leather strap. The steel bracelet is distinctive (often with a brushed finish and signed Omega clasp) and attaches under the back of the case. Leather straps were sold in colors like black, blue, or brown (there are even perforated “rally” style Dynamic straps). Because of this integration, original straps/bracelets are rare and valuable.
- Caseback Design: True to Omega’s Vintage Catalog entry, the 135.033 has a “Unishell” or monocoque case. This means the caseback is not a flat cover but an internal structure sealed by the bezel/crystal. In practice, one removes the crystal to service the movement (or uses the special tool to unscrew the strap ring and lift out the movement from the front). On automatic 565/552 models, the back sometimes features a screw-in metal ring that secures the strap. Period descriptions note “case opens through the crystal” and sometimes describe a screw ring on the back for strap fitting.
- Dimensions: The effective width (2–8 o’clock axis) is about 41 mm, but the shape is oval. Lug-to-lug (top to bottom) is roughly 42 mm. The thickness is about 11–12 mm. These were larger, sportier watches by ’60s standards. They are marked “Geneve” (Geneva) on the dial to denote the sub-collection.
- Water Resistance: Omega marketed the Dynamic as water-resistant to about 30 m (3 bar), helped by the sealed monocoque design. However, most vintage examples today are not recommended for actual water use.
- Rare/Important Models: Within 135.033, the most desirable are often the ones in all-original condition with original straps. A fully intact integrated bracelet is especially sought after. Also, certain dial/hand color combos (like the bright blue dial or the silver-grey sector dial) are particularly prized. There is no known “complicated” variant (no chronograph, no triple date in this reference). The reference remained fairly consistent through its run, aside from the different movements and dial schemes.
Overall, the Omega Dynamic 135.033 is remembered as a handsome, ergonomically designed vintage watch. Its first-run (1968–’72) examples show Omega’s flair for bold design, and collectors value the varied dials, the integrated strap system, and the colorful hands. These timepieces capture the late-1960s spirit of innovation at Omega before the quartz era.