Omega Seamaster 145.005

The Omega Seamaster 145.005 occupies a unique and increasingly appreciated position of Omega’s 1960s chronographs.. Often overshadowed by its legendary sibling, the Speedmaster, the 145.005 presents a compelling alternative – a timepiece offering the same revered heart, the Caliber 321 movement, but clothed in the more versatile and arguably more elegant attire of the Seamaster lineage. Produced during a dynamic era marked by significant design evolution and strategic branding shifts within Omega , the 145.005 embodies a fascinating chapter in the manufacturer’s history.  

Its core appeal, undeniably, stems from the inclusion of the famed Caliber 321. This movement, forever etched in history for its role in the Speedmasters that accompanied astronauts to the Moon, grants the 145.005 instant pedigree and collector desirability. As time passes, these non-Speedmaster chronographs powered by the Caliber 321 are becoming progressively harder to find, often tucked away in discerning collections, further enhancing their allure.  

Understanding the 145.005 requires placing it within the broader context of the Seamaster family. Originating in 1948, the Seamaster line began life not as the robust diver’s tool it often represents today, but as a handsome, water-resistant dress watch suitable for “town, sea, and country”. The 145.005 chronograph emerged from this heritage, predating the larger, bolder, and often funkier automatic chronographs like the 176.xxx series that would define Omega’s 1970s aesthetic.  

The existence of the 145.005 points towards a deliberate strategic decision by Omega. Possessing the prestigious Caliber 321, made famous by the Speedmaster , Omega sought to leverage this asset beyond its tool-watch icon. The Seamaster line, with its established reputation for versatility and water resistance , and the concurrently emerging, more elegant De Ville line , provided the ideal platforms. By housing the Caliber 321 within the refined 35mm case architecture typical of the Seamaster and De Ville of the era , Omega could appeal to a clientele desiring the high-grade movement without the specific functional aesthetic of the Speedmaster. This represents a calculated effort at market segmentation, maximizing the cachet and return on investment of their premier chronograph caliber.  

Historical Context and Significance

The Omega 145.005 chronograph occupies a specific, relatively narrow window in Omega’s production history, spanning approximately from 1967 to 1969. Examples bearing movement serial numbers and case back dates corresponding to 1967 and 1968 are well-documented. This timeframe aligns closely with the period when Omega began phasing out the Caliber 321 in its flagship Speedmaster line in favor of the new Caliber 861, around 1968-1969. This concise production run inherently contributes to the reference’s relative scarcity compared to models manufactured over longer periods.  

A particularly intriguing aspect of the 145.005 is its connection to both the Seamaster and De Ville lines, often reflected in the branding found on the dial. The De Ville name first appeared within the Seamaster collection in the early 1960s, signifying models with a more refined, elegant character. In 1967, Omega formally established De Ville as a separate collection, aiming to create a distinct identity for its dressier offerings. The 145.005 was born precisely during this transitional phase. Consequently, collectors encounter examples signed “Omega Seamaster” and others signed “Omega Seamaster De Ville”. These Seamaster De Ville models were generally known for combining quality, water-resistant case designs with Omega’s excellent movements of the era.  

This dual branding was likely more than just an incidental variation; it probably reflects Omega’s strategic maneuvering during a period of portfolio refinement. The De Ville line became independent in 1967 , coinciding with the introduction of the 145.005. The presence of both “Seamaster” and “Seamaster De Ville” signatures suggests that Omega did not immediately assign the model exclusively to one line. Using “Seamaster De Ville” could attract customers who valued the Seamaster’s reputation for robustness but desired the sophisticated aesthetic associated with the nascent De Ville name. Conversely, retaining the simple “Seamaster” branding might have appealed to the line’s traditional customer base. This points to a flexible, perhaps market-dependent, branding approach as Omega reorganized its collections.  

Crucially, the significance of the 145.005 is inextricably linked to the Speedmaster through its movement. It houses the very same manually wound Caliber 321 that powered the Speedmasters worn during the Gemini and early Apollo missions, including the ST 105.003 worn by Ed White during the first American spacewalk in 1965 and the ST 105.012 worn on the Moon. The 145.005 therefore offers enthusiasts the opportunity to own and experience this historically pivotal movement within a different, less overtly tool-oriented design. Omega’s continued use of the Caliber 321 in these Seamaster and De Ville models, even as the Speedmaster transitioned to the more cost-effective Caliber 861 , suggests a strategy to utilize remaining stocks of the prestigious 321 ebauches in these elegant chronographs.  

Omega Caliber 321

The heart of the Omega 145.005 is the Caliber 321, a movement whose reputation precedes it. Its lineage traces back to the Lemania Caliber 2310, also known as the CH 27 C12, a project initiated by Albert Piguet and Jacques Reymond in the 1940s. Omega, having integrated Lemania in 1932, adopted and refined this base movement, introducing it as the Caliber 321 around 1946 (with the name formally adopted in 1949). Its defining characteristic is the use of a traditional column-wheel mechanism to control the chronograph functions, a feature highly prized by collectors for its complex architecture and typically smoother pusher actuation compared to later cam-lever systems.  

Technically, the Caliber 321 is a manually wound movement featuring 17 jewels and operating at a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz). It incorporates a screwed balance wheel, a feature associated with higher-grade vintage movements. The power reserve is approximately 44 hours. Functionally, it provides hours, minutes, and a running small seconds display (typically at 9 o’clock), alongside the chronograph complication which includes a central chronograph seconds hand, a 30-minute counter (at 3 o’clock), and a 12-hour counter (at 6 o’clock).  

The Caliber 321 earned its legendary status primarily through its association with the Omega Speedmaster. Its selection by NASA for all manned space missions, following rigorous testing, and its subsequent journey to the Moon cemented its place in horological history. Beyond its historical significance, the movement is renowned for its robustness, reliability, and the satisfying tactile feedback of its chronograph operation. Omega eventually replaced the Caliber 321 with the Caliber 861 (based on the Lemania 1873) around 1968/1969. This transition was driven partly by the desire for a movement that was simpler and more economical to mass-produce, utilizing a cam-lever system instead of the more complex column wheel. The enduring appeal and historical weight of the Caliber 321, however, led Omega to meticulously recreate and reintroduce the movement in 2019 for special edition Speedmasters, a testament to its iconic status.  

For the reference 145.005, the presence of the Caliber 321 is arguably the single most significant factor driving its value and appeal to collectors today. While the Seamaster and De Ville names carry their own weight, it is the connection to the “Moonwatch” movement that elevates this reference. The increasing rarity of non-Speedmaster watches housing this caliber , combined with the movement’s inherent quality and historical significance, makes the Caliber 321 the primary value proposition for the 145.005, distinguishing it significantly from chronographs powered by more common movements.  

Case Study: Materials, Design, and Dimensions

The Omega 145.005 was offered in a selection of case materials, catering to different tastes and price points during its late 1960s production run.

• Stainless Steel: The most common variant features a robust stainless steel case, identified by the reference prefix “ST” (e.g., ST 145.005-67). This version embodies the practical, durable heritage of the Seamaster line.  
• Gold-Plated: Omega also produced gold-plated versions, likely carrying the reference prefix “MD” according to Omega’s coding system of the era. Case backs on these models often bear markings such as “Plaque Or G 40 Microns,” indicating a 40-micron gold plating over a base metal (likely steel for the main case body, with a stainless steel case back). These offered the appearance of gold at a more accessible price.  
• Solid 18k Yellow Gold: For the premium market, the 145.005 was available in solid 18k yellow gold, denoted by the reference prefix “BA”. These solid gold examples are considerably rarer than their steel or plated counterparts and represent the most luxurious iteration of the reference.  

The design language of the 145.005 case is characteristic of mid-to-late 1960s Omega dress chronographs. It features a classic round shape with a diameter of 35mm, excluding the crown and pushers. The lugs are straight and relatively substantial, often exhibiting sharp, defined bevels on well-preserved, unpolished examples. The chronograph is operated via traditional pump-style pushers flanking the crown. The case back is typically a screw-down type for water resistance, often featuring the Seamaster hippocampus logo and reference details engraved on the inside or outside, although some De Ville signed models might have variations. The winding crown is signed with the Omega logo, though original crowns are sometimes replaced during service with later Omega-signed versions. Notably, the cases for these references were often supplied by Ervin Piquerez S.A. (EPSA), a renowned casemaker famous for its compressor and super-compressor water-resistant case designs used by many Swiss brands.  

Dimensionally, the watch maintains classic proportions: a 35mm diameter, a case thickness varying slightly but typically around 12mm to 13mm , and a lug width of 18mm. The crystal is acrylic (Plexiglass), typical for the era.  

Table 1: Omega Seamaster / De Ville 145.005 Key Specifications

Faces of the 145.005: Dial Variations

The dial is the face of the watch, and the Omega 145.005 presented several distinct visages during its short production run.

• Standard Silver Dials: The most frequently encountered configuration features a silver dial, often with a subtle sunburst finish that catches the light. These dials typically employ applied metal hour markers, usually baton-shaped, complemented by an applied Omega logo. Tritium luminous material was applied, often as small plots at the outer edge of the hour markers. Printed text includes “Omega,” the model designation (“Seamaster” or “Seamaster De Ville”), and “Swiss Made” at the bottom edge. The layout is a classic three-register chronograph, with sub-dials for the 30-minute counter, 12-hour counter, and running seconds. Due to age, these silver dials often exhibit varying degrees of patina, ranging from subtle spotting to a warm, even toning, which many collectors find adds character.  
• The “Mexicano” / Reverse Panda Enigma: Standing in stark contrast to the common silver dials is an exceedingly rare and highly sought-after variant nicknamed the “Mexicano”. This version features a striking reverse panda dial – a matte black main dial surface with contrasting white sub-dials. Adding to its distinctiveness is a vibrant orange or red central chronograph seconds hand, stylistically reminiscent of the hand found on the equally rare Speedmaster “Ultraman,” though potentially not identical in length or exact hue. Production numbers for this variant are believed to be extremely low, with estimates suggesting only 10 to 20 examples may survive today. An intriguing, though unconfirmed, theory posits that these watches might have been produced in connection with the 1968 Summer Olympics held in Mexico City, where Omega served as the official timekeeper. Supporting this, albeit circumstantially, is the observation that extract archives indicate many known examples were originally delivered to the US market, potentially aligning with Olympic team or related distribution.  

The extreme rarity and unique features of the “Mexicano” suggest it deviated from standard production protocols. Rather than a regular catalog model, its existence might be attributed to Omega utilizing a small batch of specific components – perhaps leftover panda dials or a special order of orange hands – during a time when production flexibility allowed for such variations. Alternatively, the Olympics theory, if ever substantiated, would point towards a deliberate, albeit very limited, special commission. Regardless of its precise origins, the “Mexicano” highlights the less rigidly standardized manufacturing practices common in the vintage era compared to modern watch production.  

• Branding Variations: As discussed previously, the dial text itself represents a key variation. Examples can be found signed “Seamaster” or “Seamaster De Ville,” reflecting the model’s positioning during the formal separation of the De Ville line from the Seamaster family in 1967. While some sources suggest the “Seamaster” only signature might be rarer for chronographs of this specific reference family , this requires careful consideration as those references pertain to the later 145.018. For the 145.005, both signatures appear to exist as part of its transitional nature.  

Table 2: Omega 145.005 Dial & Case Variations

Export to Sheets

Hands and Time Indication

The hands fitted to the Omega 145.005 contribute significantly to its overall aesthetic and legibility.

• Standard Handset: On the prevalent silver-dialed models, the hour and minute hands are typically straight baton or stick shapes. These hands often feature a central channel filled with luminous material (Tritium) for low-light visibility, or sometimes a black enamel inlay for contrast against the silver dial. The hands operating the three sub-dials (running seconds, minute counter, hour counter) are usually simple, thin stick hands, often in black or polished steel. The central chronograph seconds hand is typically a slender, pointed hand, usually finished in polished steel or painted white for legibility. It is important to note that hands are common items to be replaced during service over the decades, so variations may exist, and originality should be carefully assessed. While the earlier Seamaster chronograph reference 105.005 sometimes featured elegant alpha-shaped hands, these were likely phased out by the time the 145.005 entered production in favor of the more modern stick/baton style.  
• “Mexicano” Handset: The defining feature of the rare “Mexicano” variant is its distinctive central chronograph seconds hand, finished in a vibrant orange or red color. This hand provides a dramatic contrast against the black and white dial. While often compared to the orange hand of the Speedmaster “Ultraman” due to the similar color and production timeframe, reports suggest they may not be perfectly identical, possibly differing in length or exact shape. The hour, minute, and sub-dial hands on the “Mexicano” likely followed the standard stick/baton forms used on other 145.005 variants.  
• Lume Details: Tritium was the luminescent material used on the dials (plots) and hands of the 145.005 during its production period. Over time, original tritium lume typically develops a patina, aging to various shades of cream, yellow, or a warm honey color. This aging process is often prized by vintage collectors as a sign of originality. However, tritium can also degrade, becoming brittle or discolored. It’s not uncommon to find examples where the lume on the hands has aged differently from the lume on the dial plots, or where hands have been replaced during service, potentially with non-luminous service hands or hands lumed with later materials.  

Original Bracelets and Straps

Omega offered the 145.005 on both leather straps and metal bracelets, consistent with its positioning as a versatile chronograph suitable for various occasions.

• Documented Options:
  • Leather Straps: Many examples, particularly those aiming for a dressier look, were originally sold on leather straps. These would have been paired with an Omega-signed pin buckle, likely finished in steel or gold-plating to match the watch case.  
  • Omega 1503 “Beads of Rice” Bracelet: At least one source specifically documents the reference 145.005 being fitted with the Omega 1503 bracelet, featuring the characteristic “beads of rice” link pattern popular in the 1960s. This bracelet requires the correct 18mm No. 570 end links to integrate properly with the 145.005 case. This combination offers a distinctively vintage and integrated look.  
  • Omega 1068 Bracelet: A single auction listing mentions an Omega 1068 bracelet paired with a reference 145.005-67. While possible, this pairing might be less common or potentially a later addition, requiring further verification for period correctness compared to the well-established use of the 1503 bracelet.  
• Fitment: Regardless of strap or bracelet choice, the correct lug width for the 145.005 is 18mm. Ensuring the use of an 18mm strap or a bracelet with the appropriate 18mm end links (like the No. 570 for the 1503) is essential for proper fit and appearance.  

The passage of time makes finding original vintage bracelets significantly more challenging than sourcing the watch head itself. Bracelets, particularly intricate designs like the “beads of rice,” experience wear, stretching, and are often separated from the watch over decades. Consequently, an Omega 145.005 accompanied by its correct, period-original bracelet, such as the 1503 with 570 end links in good condition, represents a more complete and valuable package for collectors. The rarity of these original bracelets means they command a premium and significantly enhance the desirability of an example.  

Collector’s Perspective: Rarity and Value

The Omega Seamaster Chronograph 145.005 holds a firm place within the desirable sphere of vintage Omega chronographs, primarily due to its esteemed Caliber 321 movement. As awareness and appreciation for non-Speedmaster models powered by this historic caliber grow, their scarcity in the market becomes more pronounced.  

Specifically, the 145.005 appeals to collectors seeking the mechanical prowess and historical connection of the Caliber 321 but preferring a more classic, understated aesthetic than the tool-watch design of the Speedmaster. Its 35mm case diameter is a versatile and timeless size, comfortable on a wide range of wrists and aligning well with vintage sensibilities.  

The existence of the “Mexicano” variant adds another layer of intrigue and desirability. With its reverse panda dial and distinctive orange hand, this configuration is exceptionally rare – estimated at fewer than 20 surviving examples – making it a “grail” piece for dedicated Seamaster and vintage Omega collectors.  

When evaluating a reference 145.005, collectors focus on several key aspects. Verifying the correct Caliber 321 movement and matching 145.005 case reference is paramount. Dial originality is crucial; signs of refinishing, incorrect fonts, or inconsistent lume applications detract significantly from value. The originality and condition of the hands, particularly the unique orange hand on the “Mexicano,” are critical. Case condition, assessing the degree of polishing and the sharpness of the original lug bevels, is also a major value factor. Original signed crowns, pushers, and period-correct crystals add to desirability. Finally, the presence of an original Omega bracelet (like the 1503/570) or buckle, along with original box and papers, substantially increases collector value. Documented service history provides confidence in the watch’s mechanical condition.  

A clear dichotomy exists in the market value of the 145.005. Standard examples in stainless steel, gold-plate, or even solid gold trade based on their condition, material, and the inherent desirability of the Caliber 321. However, the “Mexicano” variant occupies a different stratosphere. Its extreme rarity and unique aesthetic command a significant premium, appealing to a specialized segment of the market focused on rarity and unusual configurations. This value gap underscores how factors beyond just the movement – specifically dial variations and production anomalies – can dramatically influence the collectibility and price of vintage timepieces.  

Conclusion: A Subtle Classic with Hidden Depths

The Omega Seamaster Chronograph reference 145.005 stands as a compelling testament to Omega’s design versatility and strategic use of its premier movement during the late 1960s. Effectively bridging the robust legacy of the Seamaster line with the emerging elegance of the De Ville collection, it offered the horological prowess of the legendary Caliber 321 in a package distinct from the purpose-built Speedmaster.

Its enduring appeal rests on a combination of factors: the undeniable prestige and historical significance of the Caliber 321, its classic and wearable 35mm case proportions, the availability in various materials (stainless steel, gold-plated, and solid 18k gold), and the fascinating existence of exceptionally rare dial variations like the enigmatic “Mexicano” reverse panda. This reference captures a specific moment of transition in Omega’s branding and design language, making it a historically interesting piece beyond its mechanical merits.

For the discerning vintage Omega collector, the 145.005 offers a nuanced alternative, providing the heart of a legend within a sophisticated and subtly styled chronograph. It is a watch that rewards closer inspection, revealing hidden depths in its history, variations, and connection to one of the most celebrated movements ever produced. As appreciation for vintage Omega continues to grow, the Seamaster Chronograph 145.005 is rightfully recognized as a noteworthy and increasingly sought-after classic.