Omega Seamaster 2639

The 2639 was introduced in 1949 and produced primarily in the early 1950s. Omega’s own archive lists “International collection: 1949,” but most surviving examples date from 1950 to about 1955. The full reference (with suffix) evolved over the run, accounting for multiple dial and movement updates. Despite the late-’40s launch, more than a decade passed before Omega’s standard “Seamaster” marketing logo or seahorse emblem were standard on casebacks; early 2639 cases simply sported Omega’s name or remained plain.

Historical Context and Significance

The 2639 emerged in the wake of World War II and the success of Omega’s first Seamaster (1948). Omega leveraged wartime innovations—rubber gaskets, anti-magnetic technology, shock protection—to create durable civilian watches, and the Seamaster line was born. The 2639 embodies this spirit: it is essentially a rugged oversized dress watch. In the late 1940s, a 36 mm diameter was truly “jumbo” for men’s watches, giving the 2639 a modern look even then. At its launch, Omega described these early Seamasters as “watches made for a life of action,” combining the elegance of a dress piece with enhanced water resistance (3 bar/30 m) and magnetism resistance. In this way the 2639 is historically significant as part of Omega’s push to offer luxury watches with practical, soldier-tested features. Unlike the later diver-style Seamasters of the late 1950s, the 2639 remained a genteel time-only model—but it shared the Seamaster’s DNA of robustness. Today collectors view it as one of the brand’s classic post-war “Calatrava”-style pieces, prized for its size and engineering.

Case Materials and Design Features

All genuine Omega 2639 cases are stainless steel. The mid-century steel case is nicely shaped: a round “jumbo” case with gently twisted (sometimes called bombé) lugs that flare outward. Many original cases show drilled lugs (small holes), a rarity that makes strap changes easy. The bezel is smooth and polished, and the case sides often remain sharply defined unless heavily polished. The screw-in caseback screws tightly for water resistance; it usually carries the Omega name or is plain (no early seamaster crest). Inside, the caseback is marked by Omega, and no seahorse engraving appears (the official Seamaster hippocampus logo was only introduced in the late 1950s). The watch came on leather straps (Omega vintage leather), and any steel bracelet would have been aftermarket.

An original 2639’s crown is Omega-signed and likely a screw-down type (to achieve the 30 m rating), though it has a simple onion shape rather than the modern thick screw crowns of later sports models. The crystal is domed acrylic (hesalite) – thick, clear, and replaceable. Omega did not yet emboss crystals with logos in the early ’50s, so 2639 crystals (often unbranded) may be aftermarket replacements. Thanks to the acrylic, scratches can be polished out easily.

Because the 2639’s case was built for rugged use, it is surprisingly bulky. The Fratello Watches review of a 2639 notes an 11 mm case thickness with a 36 mm width, which was large for its era (comparable to, say, the 1950s Omega 38 mm “Super Jumbo” models). Nevertheless, it slides comfortably under a modern shirt cuff. The solid construction and drill-lugs make this watch robust and easy to personalize with straps.

Dial Variations

Perhaps the most striking thing about the 2639 is its diverse dial designs. Omega produced dozens of variations. Common dial colors include champagne/silver, cream/opal, and black, but also unique two-tone styles. Textures range from plain matte to polished sunbursts to decorative patterns like a “honeycomb” engine-turned motif. One special pattern is the so-called “bullseye” dial (seen on ref. 2639-15), which has a contrasting inner circle and outer ring. Each variant has subtle differences:

• Colors & Finishes: Many 2639s have warm silvery or pale champagne dials, often aging to a yellowish patina. Black-dial examples exist (glossy black with gold elements) but are rarer. The bullseye variant has a two-tone layout (cream center, dark outer band) that was very much “of the era.” Some dials also have minute tracks or subsidiary seconds rings in contrasting colors. Over time, many dials developed charming patina: for instance, some black dials flaked and revealed golden specks (“stardust patina”) where the lacquer has worn, due to the underlying brass dial plate.
• Hour Markers: Styles range widely. Early examples often have applied metal markers: either gilded arrowhead or dagger-shaped indices, and sometimes applied Arabic numerals (for example at 12, 3, 9). These applied elements were frequently filled or dotted with radium for luminance. Other versions have printed luminous markers or numerals painted on the dial (usually radium paint, now turned creamy). For instance, the 2639-14 reference is known in both an applied-gold-index variant and a variant with printed luminescent Arabic 12-3-9 markers. In all cases, a railroad or minute track usually runs around the dial edge, sometimes printed in gold. The Omega logo and name on the dial can be either an applied gold emblem or simply printed in gilt, matching the overall style.
• “Swiss Made” and Lume: Below 6 o’clock, you’ll often see “SWISS MADE” printed, confirming authenticity. The radium luminous paint on both markers and hands typically aged to a creamy patina and no longer glows, but it underscores the original military spec for readability in low light.
• Over the production run, Omega offered flat silver, textured guilloché (“honeycomb”), black, and two-tone “bullseye” dials, with either applied markers or painted luminous numerals. The result is one of the most dial-rich vintage Omegas around.

Calibers (Movements) Used

Omega shipped the 2639 exclusively with manual-winding movements. At launch it used Caliber 265, a 30 mm hand-wind movement with 15 jewels (and antimagnetic balance); then in 1951–52 many watches received Caliber 266, a 17-jewel evolution of the same 30 mm family. Both run at 18,000 vph and are fundamentally derived from Omega’s famed “30mm” series of movements that began in 1939. (Their “forefather” was the legendary Caliber 30 from the 1940s.) The key improvements in Cal. 266 over the 265 are just the higher jewel count and slight refinements; otherwise the performance is similar: accurate timekeeping and a respectable ~45‑hour power reserve.

These calibers feature a sub-seconds gear train (off-center seconds dial at 6). They were well-protected against magnetism – a holdover from military designs – and they are known today as very robust workhorse movements. A properly serviced 265/266 runs smoothly by the first crown turn and keeps good time. Service documents from the era emphasize their shock protection, and collectors note that original movements (with matching serials) are a sign of an honest 2639. Neither caliber was automatic – despite one dealer listing error – so all 2639 watches are hand-winds.

Hands Used

The 2639 also exhibits two main hand styles, matching its dial variability:

• Many early models use “Dauphine” hands, broad and faceted like swords, often gold-plated to match gilt indexes. These hands taper to a point and carry small radium inserts near the tip. They pair naturally with the applied-gold markers.
• Other examples have straight baton or “needle” hands in stainless steel. These are long and thin, occasionally with luminous strips down the center. The Hodinkee “bullseye” 2639-15, for instance, uses silver-tone baton hands (no lume stripe, just tiny dots at the tip). Typically the steel hands appear on dials with printed markers, while the gold dauphines appear with gilt applied markers.

Every 2639 hand design was chosen to maximize legibility and style: broad dauphines for sparkle on a lustrous dial, slender batons for a clean look on a busy two-tone dial, etc. Collectors admire both types. In all cases the seconds hand is a simple fine steel stick sweeping the small subdial at 6.

Other Notable Details

• Caseback: The screw-in caseback is plain or signed “Omega Watch Co” inside; there is no seahorse logo on any original 2639 (the hippocampus emblem only arrived on Seamasters in 1957). Cases were stamped with matching serial numbers to the movement.
• Crystal: Originally acrylic, convex in profile. These resist shattering (an advantage of early plastics) and can be polished out if scratched.
• Water Resistance: Rated to 3 bar (30 m), meaning it could handle rain and handwashing. It wasn’t a diver, but far better sealed than most dress watches of the day. The screw caseback (and likely a sealed crown) gave modest splash protection.
• Bracelet/Strap: No branded bracelet was offered new with the 2639. It came on leather (or possibly beads-of-rice bracelet) with an Omega buckle. Modern owners fit it with vintage leather or NATO straps to emphasize the drill holes and large lugs.
• Acrylic crystal note: Period evidence suggests Omega crystals of this era were unbranded, so many examples have later aftermarket plexis. This has no impact on value (plexiglass was meant to be serviceable).
• Size: By 1949 standards, the 2639 was enormous – nearly matching Omega’s 38 mm “jumbo” dress watches of the early ’50s. This big size, combined with a lean 11 mm thickness, makes it wear very “modern” today on wrists.

Reputation Among Collectors

Today the 2639 is considered a vintage collector’s favorite and a great “gateway” Omega. Enthusiasts appreciate its large size, classic look, and robust movement, all at modest prices. It’s often described as one of the most “overlooked” Omega vintage models – common enough in the market to find easily, yet not so famous as to command high premiums. In practice, honest all-original examples usually trade in the mid-hundreds to low-thousands of dollars (or ~€400–€900). Examples featured by Hodinkee and other sites highlight how striking a 2639 can be.

Collectors love the 2639 for its dial variety and value. You can find a style to your taste (elegant silver dial or bold black, luminous numerals or applied indices, etc.). Watch enthusiasts especially note that these watches wear large even by modern standards yet are thin, making them surprisingly versatile. The consensus is that if a 2639 is all-original (untouched dial, correct hands, unpolished case, matching movement) then it’s a “bargain” for the quality – a reliable, historically interesting Omega that doesn’t break the bank.

At the same time, knowledgeable buyers exercise caution: many 2639s on the market have aftermarket dials or redials. The Omega forums point out that some sellers mislabel them (e.g. “Seamaster 30” which is a 1960s name, not used on a 1950s 2639). The watch has no model name on its dial (except Ω and “Swiss Made”), so provenance relies on checking case serials and dial styles. In short, originality is king: an honest vintage dial, correct logo, and the right caliber inside will greatly enhance a 2639’s appeal.

In summary, the Seamaster 2639 is prized as a big, handsome Omega from the dawn of the Seamaster era. It has a strong reputation for reliability and charm among collectors, embodying the classic 1950s style with a sturdy waterproof case. Its wide assortment of genuine dial and hand combinations makes each piece unique – and ensures the reference remains a fun piece of Omega history to seek out.

Known 2639 Refs