Don't miss the next drop
If you’ve been collecting vintage watches for any length of time, you know that every so often a dial comes along that stops you mid-scroll. This is one of those dials. The Wittnauer Automatic Ref. 2023 is, in our opinion, one of the most visually arresting mid-century dress watches you can find at any price, and the fact that it remains relatively under the radar makes it all the more compelling.
Wittnauer, for those who need a refresher, was the American-facing sibling of Longines, sharing Swiss movements, manufacturing expertise, and a level of quality control that belied the brand’s more accessible positioning. Throughout the 1950s, Wittnauer produced a range of automatics that rivalled anything coming out of Switzerland at the time in terms of dial craft and movement reliability. The brand operated out of New York, Geneva, and Montreal simultaneously, a genuinely transatlantic operation that gave its watches a cosmopolitan flair. The Caliber 11ARB found inside this example is a robust automatic-winding movement, and beneath the screw-back case sits a beautifully finished engine with its signed rotor, visible jewels, and brushed bridges, the kind of movement view that reminds you just how much care went into these pieces.
This particular example is, without question, all about that dial. The hobnail, or “waffle,” texture is absolutely exquisite: a fine crosshatch guilloche pattern that covers the entire dial surface and catches the light with a mesmerizing, almost three-dimensional shimmer. It’s the kind of finishing you’d associate with high-end pocket watches or grand complication dials, and seeing it executed this crisply on a mid-century automatic is genuinely thrilling. The applied gold Arabic numerals at the cardinal positions have a wonderful warmth to them, while the baton indices fill in the remaining hours with quiet precision. A raised ring of gold dots forms the minute track, adding yet another layer of tactile depth to a dial that practically begs to be examined under a loupe. The gold lance hands sweep across this canvas with understated elegance.
The 10K gold-filled case features distinctive faceted, stepped lugs that give the watch a more architectural presence than your typical round dress piece. Condition-wise, this is an honest example that wears its seven-plus decades with dignity. The gold fill shows some gentle wear at the lug tips and around the crown area, revealing hints of the base metal beneath, the kind of brassing that tells a story of consistent, affectionate use. The dial itself is in fantastic shape, with the waffle texture remaining crisp and well-defined throughout. The crown appears original, and the overall case structure is solid.
For the collector who appreciates the finer details of mid-century horology, this Wittnauer is a genuine find. It offers the kind of dial finishing that would cost you a small fortune on a more hyped brand name, wrapped in a warm gold case with a beautifully crafted mechanical heart beating inside. Paired with the brown leather strap, it’s a watch that radiates vintage sophistication and quiet confidence, perfect for anyone who knows that the best-kept secrets in this hobby are often the most rewarding.
