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In the pantheon of great Swiss watchmakers, Longines holds a place of undisputed honor. For much of the 20th century, they were a true manufacture, creating some of the most beautiful, reliable, and technically advanced movements in the world. To hold a vintage Longines from this golden era is to hold a piece of genuine horological artistry, and this stunning example from the 1950s is, in our opinion, everything a classic dress watch should be.
During the post-war period, Longines was at the absolute peak of its powers, producing watches that were the envy of the industry. Their movements were legendary, and the Caliber 23Z, which beats at the heart of this watch, is a perfect example. Introduced in 1948, the 23Z is a beautifully engineered manual-winding movement, celebrated by collectors for its robust construction, elegant architecture, and superb finishing. It was a true workhorse, designed and built entirely in-house at a time when Longines was a direct competitor to the likes of Omega and even Patek Philippe. The case for this watch was produced for the American market by the renowned casemaker Schwob & Frey (S&W) for the Longines-Wittnauer company, the brand’s U.S. distributor.
This particular Reference 1064 is a masterclass in mid-century elegance. The 10k gold-filled case measures a classic 33mm, but its long, graceful lugs give it a larger and more significant presence on the wrist. What truly sets this watch apart, however, is its spectacular “waffle” dial. The textured, Clous de Paris or hobnail pattern creates a fantastic grid that plays with the light in a truly captivating way, lending the watch an incredible depth and visual sophistication. The applied, gold-toned dart and arrowhead markers are sharp and faceted, providing a perfect complement to the crisp, original dauphine handset. The subsidiary seconds register at 6 o’clock adds a touch of classic, balanced design.
This watch is a beautiful survivor, presenting in wonderful, honest condition. The intricate waffle dial is remarkably clean for its age, with only the faintest hints of patina that add to its vintage charm. The gold-filled case is in great shape, showing some minor signs of wear consistent with a life well-lived, but it remains sharp and attractive. The movement is pristine, a testament to the quality of Longines’ manufacturing and the care this watch has received over the decades.
