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In the hierarchy of vintage dive watches, Bulova carved out a legendary niche with a single number: 666. While the Swiss establishment (Rolex, Omega, and Blancpain) were content certifying their divers to 200 meters (roughly 660 feet), Bulova decided to push the envelope just a fraction further to 666 feet. Whether this was a stroke of marketing genius or a cheeky jab at their competitors, it earned this lineage the nickname “Devil Diver,” a moniker that has since become one of the most beloved in the collecting community. This isn’t just a dive watch; it is a symbol of the democratization of underwater exploration in the 1960s, offering robust, professional-grade specs to the everyday man.
The Reference 386 is a fascinating iteration of the Snorkel line because it eschews the more common acrylic bezel inserts for a machined, solid steel friction bezel. This gives the watch a monochromatic, industrial aesthetic that feels significantly more “tool watch” than its colorful siblings. The dial layout is equally compelling, featuring the highly legible 6-9-12 numerals that call to mind the great explorer watches of the era, but with the added utility of a magnified date window at 3 o’clock. It is a design that prioritizes function above all else, yet manages to look incredibly stylish on the wrist.
This particular example, the Reference 386, is a study in contrasts. The dial is a deep, matte black that provides excellent contrast against the steel furniture. We particularly love the “crosshair” running through the center, a subtle detail that adds technical precision to the visual balance. The watch is powered by the Caliber 11 ALACD, a 17-jewel automatic workhorse that is known for its durability. But the true tactile delight of this piece is the original Bulova signed beads-of-rice bracelet. It articulates with a fluidity that modern bracelets rarely achieve, hugging the wrist with a comfortable, vintage drape that makes this diver vanish under a cuff.
