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The rectangular dress watch is one of the oldest and most enduring forms in all of horology, and Baume & Mercier’s Hampton collection represents one of the finest modern interpretations of this timeless shape. Launched in the mid-1990s, the Hampton drew direct inspiration from the elegant tank-style watches of the 1920s and 1930s, a period when rectangular cases dominated the wrists of the well-dressed. What Baume & Mercier did so well with the Hampton was to take that vintage DNA and give it a modern scale, mechanical heart, and the kind of polished finishing that reminded people this was a house with roots stretching back to 1830 and membership in the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie. In a market segment crowded with quartz-powered fashion pieces, the Hampton quietly insisted on doing things properly.
This Ref. MV045120 is the large automatic variant, and to us, it’s the quintessential Hampton. The dial is where everything comes together. That warm champagne tone has a wonderful depth to it, almost like aged parchment, and it serves as the perfect canvas for those boldly printed Arabic numerals. The typography is unmistakably Art Deco in spirit, with each numeral rendered in a stylized serif font that has a theatrical, almost poster-like quality. Connecting them is an octagonal railroad-style chapter ring that echoes the case shape and creates a beautiful visual architecture, a watch within a watch. The dark leaf-shaped hands sweep across this composition with real elegance, and the date window at 6 o’clock is neatly framed and unobtrusive. It’s a dial that manages to be both busy and harmonious, which is no easy trick.
Beneath the solid caseback sits the Baume & Mercier BM8395 automatic movement, with its gold-toned, brand-signed oscillating weight swinging smoothly beneath the sapphire crystal. It’s a lovely finishing touch that elevates the Hampton above its competitors, reminding you that there is genuine Swiss mechanical craft at work here. The stainless steel caseback is engraved with the Baume & Mercier crest, the Phi symbol, serial number 2841712, and the reference MV045120.
This particular example is in excellent overall condition. The dial is clean and free of any marks or discoloration, with all printing crisp and fully intact. The stainless steel case shows honest surface scratching on the polished flanks, the kind of gentle wear you’d expect from a watch that was actually enjoyed rather than kept locked away, but the overall structure remains strong with sharp edges preserved. The original three-row polished link bracelet is in wonderful shape, with its Baume & Mercier signed deployant clasp operating smoothly. The bracelet’s design perfectly complements the rectangular case, creating a cohesive, integrated look on the wrist. Completing the package is the original Baume & Mercier presentation box, a nice touch for the collector who appreciates a complete set.
In our opinion, the Hampton Automatic Large represents one of the best values in the rectangular automatic dress watch category. It delivers genuine Swiss manufacture pedigree, a beautifully executed Art Deco dial, and an integrated bracelet, all from a respected Genevan house. For the wearer who wants something with more personality than the usual round stainless steel sports watch, something that says “I chose this deliberately,” the Hampton is a compelling and sophisticated choice that transitions effortlessly from the office to an evening out.
