Every now and then, a watch comes across our desk that reminds us just how playful and inventive the mid-century era could be. While many brands focused on classic, conservative designs, some were experimenting with clever visual tricks that are simply a joy to behold. This Gruen Precision is, without a doubt, one of the coolest and most ingenious examples of this design philosophy we have ever seen.
Gruen’s “Precision” line was the backbone of its catalog for decades, a promise to the consumer of a reliable, well-built Swiss timepiece from a trusted American name. But within that tradition of quality, Gruen’s designers were clearly having some fun. This watch, a Reference 510 RSS from the 1960s, features one of the rarest and most captivating dial features of the era: “Day/Night” or “Magic” hour markers.
This particular Gruen is in absolutely stunning, near time-capsule condition, allowing its special feature to shine. At first glance, it’s a handsome and classic dress watch with a crisp silver sunburst dial and sharp dauphine hands. But the magic, of course, is in those incredible hour markers. Through a clever use of faceted, reflective inserts, the markers create a startling optical illusion. At one angle, they appear as deep, dark green rectangular blocks. With a slight turn of the wrist, however, they catch the light and instantly flash a brilliant, almost luminous pale green. It’s a simple, non-mechanical complication that makes the watch feel alive—a subtle piece of kinetic art on your wrist. Adding to its vintage bona fides is the “Ra SWISS Ra” signature at 6 o’clock, indicating the original and coveted radium lume on the hands.