Don't miss the next drop
Before Movado became synonymous with the minimalist Museum dial that Nathan George Horwitt designed in 1947, the company was one of the most respected manufacture watchmakers in Switzerland. Founded in 1881 in La Chaux-de-Fonds under the name LAI Ditesheim & Frères, the company adopted the Movado name in 1905, choosing the Esperanto word for “movement.” Through the first half of the twentieth century, Movado produced exceptional in-house calibers and earned a reputation for beautifully designed dress watches that rivaled anything coming out of the Vallée de Joux. The company’s pre-1960s output is a world apart from what the brand would become, and pieces from this golden era are increasingly sought after by collectors who recognize the quality of what Movado once was.
The case on this example tells a story of Swiss craftsmanship at its finest. It is a François Borgel construction, identifiable by the FB patent stamp visible on the inner caseback alongside “Acier Staybrite,” ref. 13309, and serial 129934. François Borgel was the legendary Genevan case maker who patented a screw-in case construction that became the gold standard for water-resistant watchmaking in the early twentieth century, and his cases were used by the finest Swiss houses of the period. The 14K rose gold cap over the steel back creates a warm, luxurious presence on the wrist, and the stepped bezel adds architectural dimension that catches light beautifully. The faceted lugs are classic 1940s Movado, angular and purposeful, giving the watch a sense of structure that balances perfectly against the warmth of the rose gold.
The movement is signed Movado with “Factories” visible on the bridge, a manual-wind caliber with Côtes de Genève striping, visible ruby jewels with gold surrounds, and a cleanly executed balance assembly. The finishing reflects the standards of a company that was producing everything in-house during this period, and the movement shot confirms a caliber that was built to last.
This particular example is, to us, a quintessential 1940s dress watch. The dial is where everything comes together. The sector layout divides the surface into distinct zones, with the Breguet Arabic numerals wrapping around the outer ring in that unmistakable Art Deco typography that defined the era. The railroad minute track on the outermost chapter ring provides precision, while the inner circular band separates the numeral ring from the central field. The subsidiary seconds register at 6 o’clock features its own finely printed scale. The “Movado” name sits just below 12, and “Switzerland” is printed at 6. What makes this dial truly special is the patina. The original surface has aged to a warm cream with salmon undertones that harmonizes perfectly with the rose gold case, developing the kind of organic character that cannot be replicated. There is some light spotting and surface variation that speaks to eight decades of life, and the overall effect is of a dial that has genuinely improved with age.
The rose gold case shows honest wear at the lug edges and bezel corners, consistent with a watch that was worn and enjoyed. The outer caseback is a clean screw-down steel construction marked “Acier Staybrite.” The gold crown appears original and correct for the period.
This is the kind of piece that reminds you what Movado used to be. The combination of 14K rose gold François Borgel case, Breguet numeral sector dial with that incredible aged warmth, and a proper in-house manual-wind movement creates a watch with exceptional period character and a presence that far exceeds its modest dimensions. It is a collector’s watch in the truest sense, rewarding close examination at every level.
