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Tissot is, without question, one of the great workhorse names of Swiss watchmaking. Founded in Le Locle in 1853, the maison spent the better part of the twentieth century proving that quality horology did not need to come with a stratospheric price tag. The Seastar line, launched in the 1950s, became one of the brand’s most enduring nameplates, encompassing everything from purpose-built tool divers to graceful dress pieces like the one we have here. To us, the dressier Seastars are arguably the most charming chapter of the story, capturing exactly that mid-century optimism when a man’s wristwatch was meant to slip discreetly under a shirt cuff and still feel special when he glanced at it.
Powering this example is the Tissot caliber 781, a manual-wind movement from the brand’s celebrated 78x family. Visible through our movement shot, the bridges carry that warm copper-toned finish that ages so well on these vintage Tissot calibers, with the patina speaking to decades of honest use. The 781 was a dependable, well-finished workhorse, and ours is no exception, with the engraving for the caliber number, jewel count, and Tissot signature still crisply legible.
The case combines a gold-plated bezel with a stainless steel back, as confirmed by the caseback marking that reads “BASE METAL BEZEL ST. STEEL BACK.” Inside the caseback you can clearly see the reference number TR 3802 stamped into the inner surface. The lugs are svelte and faceted, retaining their original geometry and most of their factory plating with only the gentlest evidence of wear at the edges. The original signed Tissot crown is a wonderful detail to find still in place, complete with the interlocking “T” logo on its end.
The dial is the real star here, presenting in a clean off-white tone that has settled into a warm cream with age. Applied gold baton markers catch the light richly against the matte surface, and the slim dauphine hour and minute hands carry the same gilt finish, joined by a slender central seconds hand. The Tissot logo and “SEASTAR” signature are printed in crisp black, the kind of typography that simply does not get drawn this way anymore. There is some very minor spotting visible only under close inspection, which to us reads as honest character rather than any kind of flaw.
We have paired this Seastar with one of our honey-tan OTTUHR leather straps, finished with cream contrast stitching, which brings out the warmth of the gold case and complements the cream dial without competing with it. In our opinion, this combination is exactly how a watch like this is meant to wear, equal parts vintage charm and everyday wearability. For the collector seeking an honest, original mid-century Swiss dress watch with real character and history, this Seastar is a genuinely compelling proposition.
