Omega Seamaster 2846

A vintage Omega Seamaster 2846 wristwatch with a cream dial, silver case, and brown leather strap. The face displays Arabic numerals at 12, 3, 6, and 9, along with the iconic Omega logo and Seamaster label.

Specifications

Reference Report

The Omega Seamaster 2846 enjoyed a production run spanning a key period of growth and technical advancement for Omega, generally estimated from circa 1954 to 1962. This timeframe is well-supported by numerous surviving examples bearing movement serial numbers corresponding to these years, with documented pieces dating from 1954 through at least 1960. Serial numbers observed on Ref. 2846 examples, such as those in the 14 million (c. 1954) , 15 million (c. 1956-57) , and 16 million (c. 1958) ranges , align precisely with Omega’s production dating for this era. The consistent appearance of this reference across multiple years within this window confirms its status as a mainstay model for Omega throughout the latter half of the 1950s.  

The historical significance of the Ref. 2846 lies in several key areas. Firstly, it embodies the early full-rotor automatic Seamaster. Powered by the then-new and highly regarded Caliber 50x series movements, it represented a major technical leap from the preceding bumper automatics, offering superior winding efficiency and reliability. The attractive copper plating often seen on these movements is also a hallmark of this era.  

Secondly, the reference demonstrates Omega’s strategy of design versatility within a core model. It was produced in a wide array of case materials (stainless steel, gold-capped steel, and solid gold) and featured numerous dial variations (differing colors, textures, and marker styles). This approach allowed Omega to tailor a popular and reliable watch to diverse market segments and aesthetic preferences, from utilitarian steel to luxurious solid gold. Frequent co-listing with the reference 2848 suggests a close family relationship, likely indicating shared case components or minor variations (perhaps in movement or dial details) being designated under slightly different numbers, a common practice for Omega during this period.  

Thirdly, the 2846 perfectly captures the classic mid-century watch aesthetic. Its balanced proportions, typically elegant Dauphine hands, applied indices, and often distinctive lug designs encapsulate the design language of the 1950s before the trend towards larger, more tool-oriented watches gained momentum.

Finally, as a successful mainstream Seamaster model, the design elements and technical foundation laid by the 2846 undoubtedly influenced subsequent Seamaster references before the line began its definitive shift towards specialized dive watches in the 1960s. While perhaps not as famous today as the Speedmaster or later Seamaster dive models like the Seamaster 300, the Ref. 2846 is a historically important reference representing the quality, style, and technical competence of Omega during a pivotal decade. It remains a popular and highly regarded model among vintage watch collectors.

The Caliber 50x Family

The heart of the Omega Seamaster reference 2846 was primarily the Omega Caliber 50x family of movements. These represented Omega’s second generation of full-rotor automatic movements, succeeding the earlier 470/490 series and marking a significant improvement over the even earlier bumper automatics. The specific calibers most frequently encountered within the Ref. 2846 are the Caliber 500 and Caliber 501.  

  • Omega Caliber 500: Appearing around 1955-1956, the Cal. 500 typically featured 17 jewels and operated at a frequency of 19,800 vibrations per hour (vph). It provided hours, minutes, and sweep center seconds, with no date function.  
  • Omega Caliber 501: A slightly later and often more common evolution found in the 2846, the Cal. 501 usually featured 19 or 20 jewels, maintaining the 19,800 vph beat rate. Like the 500, it was a time-only movement (hours, minutes, sweep seconds). The presence of both calibers within the same reference suggests an evolutionary update or production overlap during the model’s lifespan, with the 501 likely representing a refinement.  

These movements are renowned for their robust construction, excellent reliability, and the visually appealing copper-plated finish characteristic of Omega movements from this era. Key technical features include a full-rotor automatic winding system operating bidirectionally for efficiency, and Incabloc shock protection for durability. The absence of a date complication contributes to the clean, symmetrical dial layouts often seen on the Ref. 2846. These calibers were true workhorses for Omega during the 1950s and early 1960s, powering numerous models across their different lines.  

It is worth noting some potential confusion regarding calibers. While the Cal. 500 and 501 are center-second movements and align with the typical configuration of the Ref. 2846, some sources occasionally list the Caliber 490 or 491 for this reference. These 49x series calibers are generally understood to be sub-second movements. It is possible that sub-second variants of the 2846 existed, or these calibers might have been used in the closely related Ref. 2848, which is often listed alongside the 2846. Therefore, verifying the seconds hand configuration (sweep center seconds vs. small sub-seconds) is important when identifying a specific watch from this family, as the reference number alone may not capture all variations.  

While related calibers like the Cal. 505 were used in Omega’s chronometer-certified Constellation line , standard examples of the Seamaster Ref. 2846 were generally not chronometer-certified. Although some chronometer-rated Seamasters existed in this era , they typically carried different reference numbers (e.g., 165.003, 168.024, 2767). The lack of common chronometer certification for the 2846 reinforces its intended positioning as a high-quality, reliable watch for versatile everyday use, distinct from the high-precision focus of the Constellation line, reflecting Omega’s market segmentation strategy at the time.  

Case and Design Details

The case of the Omega Seamaster 2846 is a defining element of its vintage appeal, showcasing characteristic mid-century design language and offered in a range of materials.

Dimensions and Proportions: The case adheres to the typical men’s watch dimensions of the 1950s, featuring a classically round shape with a diameter of approximately 34mm excluding the crown. The lug-to-lug distance typically measures around 41mm , contributing significantly to the watch’s wrist presence. The standard lug width for fitting straps or bracelets is 18mm.  

Materials and Reference Prefixes: Omega offered the Ref. 2846 in several case materials, often denoted by prefixes in the reference number found inside the case back:

  • Stainless Steel: The most common and utilitarian option, providing durability. The reference prefix for steel models is typically ST. Example: ST 2846.  
  • Gold Capped: A popular mid-tier option featuring a thick layer of gold (often 40 or 80 microns specified on the case) bonded over a stainless steel case body, usually combined with a steel case back. The prefix KO indicates a yellow gold cap , while KP likely denoted pink/rose gold cap. Example: KO 2846. It’s important to distinguish gold capping from gold plating (often denoted by prefixes like MD for 20 microns ), as capping involves a significantly thicker layer of gold.  
  • Solid Gold: Representing the top of the range, these less common models were produced in solid 14k or 18k yellow gold, and occasionally pink/rose gold. Prefixes include OJ (14k Yellow Gold), OT (18k Yellow Gold), or BA (18k Yellow Gold under a later system). Example: OT 2846.  

The following table summarizes common Omega case material codes from the era relevant to identifying Ref. 2846 variants:

CodeMaterial DescriptionNotes
STStainless SteelCommon for 2846
KOGold Cap (Yellow) over SteelCommon for 2846, thick gold layer
KPGold Cap (Pink/Rose) over SteelMentioned for 2846, thick gold layer
OJSolid 14k Yellow GoldLess common for 2846
OTSolid 18k Yellow GoldLess common for 2846
BASolid 18k Yellow GoldLater code system, may appear on some examples
MDGold Plated (20 Microns, Yellow)Thinner than gold cap, check case markings
MEGold Plated (20 Microns, Pink/Rose)Thinner than gold cap, check case markings

Design Features: A defining visual characteristic of many Ref. 2846 examples is the lug design. While some feature simpler tapered lugs, many are known for their more substantial, often faceted lugs, frequently referred to by collectors as “beefy lugs”. These robust lugs contribute significantly to the watch’s visual weight and wrist presence, making the 34mm case wear slightly larger than its diameter might suggest. Well-preserved examples often exhibit sharp original bevels on these lugs.  

The watch was fitted with an acrylic (Plexiglas) crystal, standard for the era. Original crystals often featured a tiny, micro-etched Omega logo (Ω) in the center, a detail prized by collectors. The crown was a push-pull type (non-screw-down) and was signed with the Omega logo. Depending on the exact production year, this could be the earlier “clover leaf” style or the later notched design.  

There appears to be variation in the case back construction within the 2846 family. While the base text implies a screw-down back was standard, crucial for achieving the Seamaster’s intended water resistance and often featuring the Hippocampus logo, numerous sources explicitly describe Ref. 2846 variants (especially gold-capped KO models) as having press-in or snap-on case backs. It is therefore likely that both types existed. Press-in backs may have been more common on gold-capped models , while stainless steel models might have more frequently used screw-down backs, particularly later examples engraved with the iconic Seamaster Hippocampus logo. Early examples might have simpler “Waterproof” markings or plain backs. This variation is important for collectors to note regarding authenticity and expected water resistance.  

The inside of the case back is stamped with the reference number 2846, often followed by a suffix (e.g., -1SC, -2SC, -3SC, -6SC, -7SC, -8SC, -9SC, -11SC, -14SC, -15SC). These suffixes likely denote specific case, dial, or movement combinations used by Omega for internal tracking, a common practice that evolved into more complex coding systems later. While not definitively confirmed by Omega documentation for this specific reference system, the common “SC” suffix likely stands for “Seconde Centrale” (Center Seconds), distinguishing these sweep-second models (typically using Cal. 500/501) from potential sub-second variants. The inside case back also contains material indications and sometimes case maker marks, such as CB for Centrale Boîtes.  

Dial Variations and Aesthetics

The Omega Seamaster 2846 is notable for the remarkable variety of its dial configurations, offering a rich tapestry of mid-century styles that makes it a fascinating reference for collectors.

Color Palette: The most frequently encountered dial colors are Silver, White, and Cream/Champagne tones. These offered a classic and versatile look, with finishes ranging from matte white to silvery sunburst or warm, creamy off-white hues. Some dials featured attractive two-tone effects, often with a contrasting chapter ring or sector divisions. Significantly rarer, and consequently highly sought after by collectors, are dials in Black. These often featured a gloss finish with gilt (gold) printing and markers for contrast. Grey dials can also occasionally be found, offering a subtle alternative. The relative scarcity of black and grey dials compared to the lighter options makes them particularly desirable and influences their market value.  

Finishes and Textures: Beyond simple matte or sunburst finishes, Omega endowed some Ref. 2846 dials with more elaborate textures, a design trend characteristic of the 1950s that added perceived value and visual complexity. The most notable of these is the Honeycomb pattern, which creates a distinctive, textured surface adding depth and visual interest. Other textures mentioned include Linen finishes or Vertically Brushed surfaces. Finding these textured dials, especially the honeycomb variants, in excellent condition is a key goal for many collectors.  

Markers: Applied metal hour markers were standard, contributing to the dial’s quality appearance. Several styles were used, often in combination:

  • Dauphine Markers: Triangular, faceted markers, frequently paired with Dauphine hands.  
  • Arrowhead Markers: Pointed markers, sometimes alternating with other styles.  
  • Baton Markers: Simple rectangular or stick markers, sometimes faceted.  
  • Applied Arabic Numerals: Often found at the cardinal positions (12, 3, 6, 9) or just at 12 o’clock, sometimes alternating with baton or dart markers. Breguet-style numerals are mentioned in one source , though this might be a specific rare variant or potential misidentification; applied Breguet numerals are generally uncommon on standard Seamasters of this type.  

Crosshair Dials: A popular feature on many mid-century Omegas, including some examples of the Ref. 2846, was the presence of fine printed crosshairs intersecting at the dial’s center. This detail adds a touch of technical or sector-dial aesthetic popular during the era.  

Dial Text: Standard dial text includes the applied metal Omega logo (Ω) and printed text typically including “OMEGA,” “Automatic,” and “Seamaster”. Variations exist in the “Seamaster” script, with some collectors noting the early “coathanger S” style. “Swiss Made” or “Swiss” is usually printed at the bottom edge of the dial.  

The sheer variety of combinations – color, texture, marker style, crosshair presence – demonstrates Omega’s strategy in the 1950s of offering significant aesthetic customization within a core model like the 2846 to appeal to a wide range of consumer tastes. Over decades, the development of patina can further alter the appearance, with some dials aging to desirable creamy or tropical tones, while others might exhibit spotting or discoloration.  

Hand Styles

The hands fitted to the Omega Seamaster 2846 were chosen to complement the dial markers and the overall mid-century aesthetic of the watch.

Common Styles: The most prevalent hand style found on the Ref. 2846 is arguably the Dauphine hand set. These faceted, pointed hands possess an elegance characteristic of the 1950s and were often paired with corresponding Dauphine or arrowhead hour markers. Dauphine hands on the 2846 frequently featured a central channel filled with luminous material (originally radium, later potentially tritium in service replacements). The strong association of Dauphine hands with this reference firmly anchors its design language in the mid-1950s.  

Simpler, straight Stick or Baton hands were also utilized, typically paired with baton-style hour markers. These could also feature luminous inserts.  

Sweep Seconds Hand: A central sweep seconds hand was standard for the Cal. 500/501 movements powering most 2846 models. This hand was typically a simple, thin pointer, sometimes with a small luminous plot near the tip.  

Material and Lume Considerations: Omega maintained design cohesion by typically matching the material of the hands (steel or gold-tone) to the case material (steel, gold-capped, solid gold) and the applied dial furniture (hour markers, Omega logo). Luminous material applied to hands and dial markers was initially Radium, as indicated on some vintage watch descriptions. Over time, or during service, this might have been replaced with Tritium. The natural aging process of this luminous material contributes significantly to the vintage character, often developing a warm patina ranging from cream to dark grey or pumpkin tones.  

Original Bracelet and Strap Options

The Omega Seamaster 2846, with its standard 18mm lug width , was originally offered to customers on both leather straps and metal bracelets.  

Leather Straps: A common pairing, leather straps provided a dressier appearance suitable for the “town and country” aspect of the Seamaster concept. These would have been fitted with an Omega-signed pin buckle made from a material matching the watch case (stainless steel or gold-plated).  

Metal Bracelets: The “Beads of Rice” Omega offered several styles of metal bracelets during the 1950s and early 1960s. For the Seamaster 2846, the most sought-after and period-correct style is the “Beads of Rice” (BoR) bracelet. Known for its exceptional comfort due to the articulation of its many small, rice-grain-shaped center links, and its intricate appearance, the BoR was often a premium option.  

Identifying the correct original BoR bracelet for a Ref. 2846 involves matching the bracelet reference number and, crucially, the 18mm end links. Specific Omega BoR references documented as being paired with Seamasters of this era and potentially suitable for the 2846 include:

  • Ref. 1037: Often mentioned in conjunction with No. 12 end links.  
  • Ref. 1502: Also cited for Seamaster 2846 models.  
  • Ref. 1503: Documented with No. 570 end links.  
  • Ref. 8220: Seen paired with No. 11 end links.  

Other period-correct 18mm end links that could potentially fit appropriate BoR bracelets include the No. 511 and No. 614. While other contemporary Omega bracelet styles like simpler flat-link or expansion bracelets might have been available in some markets, the Beads of Rice style holds the most significance for collectors of the Ref. 2846.  

Collector Considerations: Finding an Omega Seamaster 2846 complete with its original, period-correct Beads of Rice bracelet in good condition is relatively uncommon today. Bracelets were often subject to wear, damage, or replacement over the decades. Consequently, examples still paired with their original BoR bracelets, especially sought-after references like the 1037 or 1502, command a significant premium in the vintage market. The rarity and added value of the original bracelet underscore a key aspect of vintage watch collecting: the importance of completeness and original accessories.  

Collector’s Perspective and Conclusion

The Omega Seamaster 2846 stands as a cornerstone reference in the rich history of the Seamaster line, representing a significant model from Omega’s prolific mid-century era. Produced during the dynamic years from the mid-1950s to the early 1960s, it perfectly encapsulates the blend of elegance, robustness, and technical competence that defined the brand during this period. Powered by the reliable early Caliber 50x automatic movements and housed in classically proportioned 34mm cases often distinguished by their substantial “beefy” lug design , the 2846 offered remarkable versatility through its availability in stainless steel, durable gold-capping, and luxurious solid gold variants.  

Its enduring appeal to collectors stems from multiple factors. Mechanically, the Caliber 500/501 movements are known for their dependability, making the 2846 a vintage watch that can still be enjoyed regularly with proper maintenance. Historically, it represents a crucial evolutionary stage for the Seamaster, marking the transition to efficient full-rotor automatics and embodying the line’s original versatile philosophy before its later specialization into dedicated dive watches.  

Aesthetically, the Ref. 2846 offers a quintessential mid-century Omega look, characterized by balanced proportions and elegant details like Dauphine hands. Furthermore, the sheer variety of its dial configurations – ranging from common silver, white, or cream dials to rare black or grey versions , and featuring textures like the sought-after honeycomb pattern or details like crosshairs – provides a rich field for collectors seeking specific variations.  

In the vintage market, the Omega Seamaster 2846 occupies a desirable position. It is historically significant, aesthetically pleasing, mechanically sound, and available in enough variations to sustain collector interest, while often remaining more accessible than iconic contemporaries like early Speedmasters. Key factors driving value include overall condition (particularly of the case and dial), originality of all components (dial, hands, crown, crystal), and rarity. Solid gold cases are rarer than steel or gold-capped versions. Black, grey, or textured honeycomb dials command premiums over standard silver or white dials. Crucially, the presence of an original Omega Beads of Rice bracelet (such as Ref. 1037 or 1502) significantly enhances desirability and value compared to examples on leather straps or later replacement bracelets. This value hierarchy reflects typical vintage market dynamics where rarity, precious materials, and completeness are highly prized.  

In conclusion, the Omega Seamaster 2846 is more than just a vintage timepiece; it is a tangible piece of Omega’s heritage from a golden era. It successfully bridged the gap between dress and sport, embodying the original “Town, Sea, and Country” vision with style and technical reliability. Its classic design, dependable movement, and diverse configurations ensure its continued relevance and appeal to discerning collectors and enthusiasts of vintage Omega watches.

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