Don't miss the next drop
Zodiac is one of those names that makes seasoned collectors perk up immediately. Founded in Le Locle in 1882 by Ariste Calame, Zodiac spent the better part of a century producing watches that punched well above their weight class, earning a devoted following among enthusiasts who valued substance over marketing spend. While the brand is perhaps best known today for its Sea Wolf dive watches, which were among the earliest purpose-built dive watches when introduced in the 1950s, Zodiac’s dress watch catalog deserves far more attention than it typically receives. The “Glorious” line is a perfect example: a name that might sound a touch bold, but one that the watch itself absolutely lives up to.
By the 1960s, Zodiac was operating at the peak of its independent era, producing a range of automatic calibers and sourcing high-quality movements that were finished and regulated to the brand’s own exacting specifications. The Cal. 70-72 powering this example is a 17-jewel automatic with a self-adjusting mechanism, housed beneath the solid caseback. The Zodiac-signed rotor with its distinctive compass rose logo and gold lettering is a genuinely attractive movement. It’s a robust, reliable workhorse caliber that reflects the era’s commitment to building movements meant to be worn hard and serviced easily.
This particular example is, in a word, stunning. The dial is the undeniable star here, finished in a smoky grey sunburst that shifts between warm taupe, cool steel, and deep charcoal depending on how the light catches it. It’s an unusual and incredibly sophisticated color that you simply don’t encounter often in vintage watches at this price point. The effect is almost like looking at brushed pewter or weathered silver, and it gives the watch a quiet intensity that photographs can only begin to capture. The applied indices are beautifully executed, with polished arrow-shaped tips that catch and reflect light with a sharpness that adds real visual depth. At 12 o’clock, the Zodiac compass rose logo sits in black against the grey dial, flanked by the “Zodiac” name in a classic serif font and the italic “Glorious” sub-line beneath. The cursive “Automatic” designation at the lower half of the dial and the “Swiss Made” text complete a layout that is clean, balanced, and thoroughly refined. The dauphine handset features luminous inserts that have aged to a warm, creamy tone, providing a subtle contrast against the cool grey of the dial.
The stainless steel case is in excellent condition, with sharp, faceted lugs that give the watch a crisp, architectural profile on the wrist. The side views reveal a slim, well-proportioned case with clean lines and a smooth bezel. The Zodiac-signed crown, featuring the brand’s compass rose emblem, appears to be original and sits properly in its recess. The caseback is engraved with the Zodiac Libra scales logo and the specifications “Water- & Shockresistant” and “Automatic-Antimagnetic-Swiss,” while the inner caseback confirms Le Locle production in acier inoxydable (stainless steel) with the reference number 702-917. There is honest surface scratching on the caseback consistent with decades of wear, but nothing that detracts from the overall presentation of what is clearly a well-maintained piece.
For the collector seeking a time-only dress watch with genuine character, impeccable dial presence, and the kind of brand heritage that rewards deeper investigation, this Zodiac Glorious is an absolute gem. Paired here with an earthy olive suede strap that beautifully complements the grey tones of the dial and the cool steel of the case, it strikes a balance between vintage charm and contemporary wearability that few watches manage. In a market where collectors are increasingly hunting for distinctive, under-the-radar alternatives to the usual suspects, Zodiac’s Glorious line represents arguably one of the best-kept secrets in mid-century Swiss watchmaking. This is a watch for the collector who knows, and who wants something genuinely special on their wrist.
