Don't miss the next drop
Zodiac is a brand that rewards the patient collector, and every so often a piece comes along that reminds you exactly why. Founded in 1882 in Le Locle by Ariste Calame, Zodiac built its reputation on producing robust, thoughtfully engineered timepieces that consistently delivered quality well beyond their price point. While the Sea Wolf tends to dominate collector conversations around the brand, Zodiac’s dress watch catalog represents some of the finest value in all of mid-century Swiss watchmaking. The “Hermetic” line, named for its sealed, water-resistant case construction, sat at the more refined end of Zodiac’s offerings, a hand-wound dress watch built with the kind of practical resilience that the Le Locle house was known for. The name itself evokes an airtight seal, a promise of protection, and Zodiac took that promise seriously.
The movement powering this Hermetic is a beautifully finished 17-jewel hand-wound caliber, featuring Zodiac-signed bridges and the brand’s compass rose logo. The finishing is genuinely impressive for a watch at this level, with circular graining on the bridges, polished jewel settings with vivid red rubies catching the light, and a clean, well-organized architecture that speaks to careful engineering. There is something deeply satisfying about a hand-wound dress watch, the daily ritual of winding, the direct mechanical connection between wearer and movement, and Zodiac’s caliber here delivers that experience with refinement and reliability.
This particular example is, to put it simply, extraordinary. Not just for the watch itself, which is in fantastic condition, but for what it comes with and what it represents. The silver sunburst dial is absolutely gorgeous, radiating outward from the center in fine, shimmering lines that shift between cool silver and warm champagne depending on the angle and light. The applied stick indices are polished to a mirror finish and catch light with a crispness that gives the dial real three-dimensional depth. The doubled indices at 12 o’clock frame the Zodiac compass rose logo beautifully, while the “Zodiac” name and the italic “Hermetic” sub-line are printed with precision. The “T Swiss T” designation at the bottom of the dial confirms tritium luminous material on the hands and indices. The gold dauphine handset is in superb condition, showing virtually no signs of aging, and the slender central sweep seconds hand adds a welcome touch of mechanical vitality.
The gold case is in excellent shape, with sharp, angular lugs and a clean, slim profile that photographs beautifully from every angle. The side views reveal the kind of thin, well-proportioned silhouette that would sit perfectly under a dress shirt cuff, exactly as intended. There is light surface wear on the case sides consistent with gentle use over the decades, but nothing that diminishes the strong overall presentation.
The caseback tells a remarkable story. Engraved in bold lettering: “N.A.S. Whidbey / B E Collings / Retired / 12 4 1970.” This watch was presented to B.E. Collings upon retirement from Naval Air Station Whidbey Island on December 4th, 1970. NAS Whidbey, located on Whidbey Island in Washington State, has been a critical Pacific Northwest naval installation since World War II, home to patrol squadrons and electronic attack wings. The fact that the Navy chose a Zodiac Hermetic as a retirement presentation piece tells you everything about the brand’s standing in 1970: this was a respected, quality Swiss timepiece considered worthy of honoring a career of military service. That provenance alone makes this watch special, but the story goes even deeper.
This Zodiac Hermetic comes as a complete full set, an almost unheard-of find for a watch of this era and price point. The original red Zodiac presentation box with the gold compass rose emblem on the lid is present and in wonderful condition. Inside, the Zodiac Guarantee, Warranty, and Instructions booklet remains intact. And perhaps most remarkably, the original Zodiac hang tags are still attached, including the “Lifetime Balance Staff” tag and the “Lifetime Mainspring / Water Resistant” tag. Finding any one of these accessories with a vintage watch is a pleasant surprise; finding all of them together borders on miraculous.
The inner caseback confirms Le Locle production with the Zodiac Ltd Le Locle Swiss stamp, Fond Acier Inoxydable (stainless steel back), and the reference number 673-853. The combination of a gold case with a stainless steel caseback was a common and practical approach in this era, providing the warmth and presence of gold where it matters most while ensuring the back remained durable and resistant to corrosion from skin contact.
For the collector who values completeness, provenance, and genuine character, this Zodiac Hermetic is an absolute treasure. You’re getting a beautifully preserved hand-wound dress watch from a respected Le Locle manufacture, a tangible piece of U.S. Navy history, and a full set of original accessories that elevates the entire package to something truly rare. Paired with a black leather strap with contrast stitching that lets the warm gold case and brilliant sunburst dial command attention, this is the kind of watch that makes you fall in love with collecting all over again. In our opinion, you simply cannot do better than this at the price.
