Don't miss the next drop
The Tissot Seastar is, in our opinion, one of the great unsung dress watch values of the mid-century era. Slim, beautifully finished, and built around dependable in-house calibers, these watches punched well above their weight when new and continue to do so today. But this particular example is no ordinary Seastar. It carries the signature of Türler, the legendary Zurich retailer that has sold fine watches and jewelry on Paradeplatz since 1865, and to find their name on a dial is a quiet badge of provenance that vintage collectors actively hunt for.
Founded by Charles Tissot and his son in 1853, Tissot was one of the first Swiss houses to fully industrialize watchmaking, and by the post-war years they were producing some of the most refined movements of any volume manufacturer. The caliber 781-1 powering this Seastar is a beautifully executed manual wind, with 17 jewels, Incabloc shock protection, and the kind of straightforward architecture that makes these movements such reliable companions decades on. As shown in our movement photograph, the copper-toned finishing presents cleanly, with sharp screw heads and well-defined ruby jewel settings.
This example dates to the late 1960s and showcases Tissot at the height of its dress watch form. The silver dial features a subtle vertical brushed finish that catches light beautifully across its surface, contrasted by applied gold baton markers with a deep black inlay that gives the whole composition real architectural depth. The square Tissot “T” logo sits proudly at twelve, with TISSOT SWISS printed in crisp black just beneath, the TÜRLER signature taking pride of place above the SEASTAR model designation. The T SWISS MADE T markings at six confirm the original tritium luminous compound, which has warmed gently with age in the slim baton hands.
The case, gold-plated bezel over a stainless steel caseback as confirmed by the FOND ACIER INOXYDABLE LUNETTE PLAQUÉ OR G stamping, retains its sharp lugs and original slim profile. The reference 42520-3 stamping is clearly visible alongside the case number 41520, and the original Tissot signed crown remains in place. There are some honest tool marks on the steel caseback from past service entry, and a gentle softness to the high points of the gold plating, the kind of quiet patina we look for in a piece that’s seen a life lived rather than a life sheltered. The dial itself is exceptionally clean, reading almost as fresh as the day it left Türler’s showcase, which speaks to how carefully this one was kept.
We’ve paired it with our Anthracite suede strap, which echoes the warm tones of the gold case while keeping things easy and unfussy on the wrist. This is, to us, the kind of watch that rewards close attention. Slim, dressy, beautifully proportioned, and carrying a retailer signature that means something to those who know. An ideal candidate for someone building a thoughtful vintage collection or simply looking for a real horological sleeper to slip under a French cuff.
