Rolex Submariner Date 1680

The Rolex Submariner reference 1680 stands as a watershed moment in dive watch history, representing the first time Rolex added a date complication to its legendary underwater tool watch. Introduced in the late 1960s, this reference broke from the austere, function-only philosophy that had defined the Submariner since 1953, adding both a date window at 3 o’clock and the now-iconic Cyclops magnifying lens perched atop its acrylic crystal.​

What makes the 1680 particularly compelling to collectors is not just its historical significance as a bridge between vintage tool watches and modern luxury sports pieces, but the remarkable diversity of configurations it appeared in during its decade-plus production run. From the coveted early “Red Submariner” dials with their distinctive crimson lettering to the later all-white versions, from meters-first to feet-first depth ratings, from Twinlock to Triplock crowns, the 1680 offers collectors an almost bewildering array of variations to pursue. This reference also marked Rolex’s first foray into precious metal dive watches with the yellow gold 1680/8, signaling the brand’s evolution from pure tool watch manufacturer to maker of sporty luxury timepieces.​

Rolex Submariner Ref.1680 ‘Single Red’ Mk.IV, 1973 

History and Production Period

The Submariner 1680 made its debut in 1967, though some examples with serial numbers dating to 1966 have been documented, suggesting limited early production or distribution. This timing placed it alongside two concurrent no-date Submariner references, the 5512 and 5513, rather than replacing them outright. The addition of the date function required a different movement than its siblings, necessitating the use of the Caliber 1575 instead of the 1570.​

Production continued until 1979 or 1980, with sources varying slightly on the exact end date. During this approximately 13-year run, the reference underwent numerous evolutionary changes that create a rich landscape for collectors to explore. The most significant shift occurred around 1974-1975 (approximately the 4.0 million serial number range), when Rolex transitioned from the “Red Submariner” with its distinctive red “SUBMARINER” text to an all-white dial designation.​

In 1969, just two years after launching the steel 1680, Rolex shocked the market by introducing the reference 1680/8 in solid 18-karat yellow gold. This bold move demonstrated the brand’s ambition to transcend its utilitarian tool watch reputation and establish the Submariner as a viable luxury sport watch. The gold version was initially offered with both black and blue dials, though the blue dials would become famous for their propensity to transform into tropical brown, purple, and orange hues over time.​

TROPICAL Rolex Submariner 1680 Red Automatic Vintage Diver  

The 1680 represented the last Submariner Date to feature several vintage characteristics that disappeared with its successor, the reference 16800. It was the final date-displaying Submariner to use an acrylic crystal, a bidirectional bezel, and to lack a quickset date function. When the 16800 arrived in 1979 with its sapphire crystal, unidirectional bezel, and updated caliber 3035, it marked a decisive break with the past. This makes the 1680 the final truly vintage Submariner Date, a status that significantly enhances its collector appeal.​

Serial number ranges provide insight into production periods. The earliest Red Submariners begin around serial 2.1 million (1969), with meters-first dials appearing through approximately serial 2.45 million (1970). Feet-first Red Submariners span from late 1970 through approximately serial 4.0 million (mid-1970s), when the transition to white dials occurred. White dial production continued through serial ranges in the 5-6 million area until production ceased around 1979-1980.​​

Technical Specifications

The 1680 maintains the 40mm case diameter that had become standard for the Submariner since the introduction of crown guards in 1959. However, measurements can vary slightly on vintage examples, with some sources citing 39-39.5mm due to measurement methodology or case wear from polishing. The case features prominent crown guards that help protect the winding crown, a design element introduced on the reference 5512/5513 generation.​​

Case thickness measures approximately 13.5-14mm depending on crystal type, with the distinctive “top hat” acrylic crystal adding approximately 3mm of height above the bezel. This elevated crystal profile gives the 1680 an unmistakable vintage presence on the wrist. Lug-to-lug measurement falls in the 47-48mm range, making it well-proportioned for a wide variety of wrist sizes.​​

Water resistance is rated to 200 meters (660 feet), as indicated on the dial. While this is half the 300-meter rating of its successor, the 16800, it remained more than adequate for recreational diving and professional use. The screw-down caseback is solid stainless steel with the reference number 1680 stamped inside, along with production quarter and year stamps in Roman numeral format (e.g., “IV.70” indicating fourth quarter of 1970).​

The crystal deserves special attention. Early 1680 examples feature what collectors call the “top hat” crystal, reference 25-127, which stands proud of the case with sharp 90-degree edges rather than beveled sides. This gives the watch a distinctly boxy, vintage profile when viewed from the side. Later production examples and service replacements often received beveled crystals with a less pronounced profile, though both styles are acrylic (plexiglass) with the Cyclops magnification lens over the date window.​​

Vintage Rolex Submariner 1680 sold on watchPool24 

Movements and Calibers

The Submariner 1680 was powered exclusively by the Caliber 1575 throughout its entire production run, a rarity for Rolex references of this era which often saw movement updates. The Cal. 1575 is essentially identical to the Cal. 1570 used in the contemporary no-date Submariner 5512, with the addition of a date module and calendar mechanism.​

This automatic movement operates at 19,800 vibrations per hour (2.75Hz) and provides approximately 48 hours of power reserve. It features 26 jewels, a free-sprung Gyromax balance wheel with Microstella regulation screws for precise adjustment, and a Breguet overcoil on the hairspring. These technical features exemplify Rolex’s focus on robust, reliable performance rather than haute horlogerie finishing.​

One quirk worth noting is that despite being designated the 1575, the movement is stamped “1570” on the rotor bridge, as the calendar module is considered an addition to the base 1570 caliber rather than a fundamentally different movement. This can sometimes cause confusion when examining the movement through a display caseback (though original 1680 cases have solid backs).​

Rolex Caliber 1575 Rolex 1565 Movement Rolex 1565 Movement 

The date mechanism employs what collectors call an “instantaneous” but “slow-set” system. The date changes instantly at midnight thanks to a cam and jewel system developed for the Datejust years earlier, but adjusting the date requires repeatedly advancing the time through midnight rather than using a quickset function. This characteristic distinguishes it from later Submariner Date references starting with the 16800, which gained quickset date functionality via the Cal. 3035.​

In 1972, Rolex added a hacking seconds function to the Cal. 1575, allowing the seconds hand to stop when the crown is pulled to the time-setting position. This improved timesetting accuracy and synchronization. Earlier examples (1967-1971) lack this feature, providing another subtle variation point for collectors to note.​

The Cal. 1575 earned a reputation as one of Rolex’s legendary workhorse movements. While it would never win awards for decoration or finishing, it embodied the brand’s form-follows-function philosophy: build a movement to run reliably under any conditions, forever. This movement also powered the early Sea-Dweller references and other date-displaying Rolex sports watches of the era, proving its versatility and dependability.​

Sub-

The primary sub-reference of note is the 1680/8, the yellow gold version of the Submariner Date. Introduced in 1969, this reference featured an 18-karat yellow gold case, bezel, and bracelet, marking Rolex’s first precious metal dive watch.​

The 1680/8 was initially offered with two dial options: black or blue, both featuring applied gold hour markers with tritium centers in a distinctive conical shape that collectors nicknamed “nipple dials” due to their raised, pointed profile. The blue dials became particularly famous for their tendency to undergo dramatic color changes due to pigmentation instability in the dial lacquer. Depending on environmental factors including UV exposure, humidity, and heat, these blue dials could transform into shades of tropical brown, honey orange, violet purple, or navy blue.​

The 1680/8 in gold maintained the same 40mm case size and caliber 1575 movement as its stainless steel sibling, differing primarily in material composition. Production ran from 1969 to approximately 1978-1979, when it was succeeded by the reference 16808 with sapphire crystal. The gold version commands significant premiums in today’s market, particularly examples with dramatic tropical dial patina.​

Rolex Submariner 1680/8 in 18k Yellow Gold with Honey  

Dial Variations

The dial variations of the Rolex Submariner 1680 represent one of the most complex and fascinating aspects of this reference. Collectors have identified at least eight distinct dial types, typically designated as Mark I through Mark VIII (or MKI through MKVIII). The first six marks feature the famous red “SUBMARINER” text, while Marks VII and VIII display all-white text.​

Red Submariner Dials (Mark I through Mark VI)

Mark I (Meters First, Long F): The rarest of all 1680 dials, appearing on the earliest examples with serial numbers beginning around 2.07-2.1 million from 1969. Distinguished by:​

• Meters-first depth rating (200m = 660ft)
• Red “SUBMARINER” text printed over white lettering
• Closed 6’s in the depth rating
• Elongated, curved “f” in “ft” that rises above the “t”
• Compact font overall
• Serial range: approximately 2.07-2.2 million​

Mark II (Meters First): Also extremely rare, appearing shortly after Mark I in 1969. Characteristics include:​

• Meters-first depth rating
• Red text over white
• Open 6’s in the depth rating (a key differentiator from Mark I)
• Rolex coronet with a small hole at its bottom
• Serial range: approximately 2.2-2.45 million​
• These dials are particularly prone to “going tropical” and developing rich brown patina​

1969 Rolex Submariner ref. 1680 “Tropical Brown MK2 Dial  

Mark III (Meters First, Short F): The final meters-first variant, also from 1969-1970. Features:​

• Meters-first depth rating
• Red text printed directly onto the dial (no white underlayer)
• Open 6’s
• Shorter “f” in “ft” compared to Mark I and II
• Serial range: approximately 2.2-2.45 million (overlapping with Mark II)​

Mark IV (Feet First): Introduced around late 1970, this was the first feet-first variation. Identifiable by:​​

• Feet-first depth rating (660ft = 200m)
• Red text over white lettering
• Very open 6’s in the depth rating
• The bar on the “f” in “ft” sits unusually low
• Serial range: approximately 2.45 million through early 3 million​​

Mark V (Feet First): Appeared circa 1971-1973. Distinguished by:​

• Feet-first depth rating
• Red text printed directly onto dial surface
• Open 6’s, but smaller openings than Mark IV (often described as “almost closed”)​
• Serial range: approximately 3.0-3.5 million​

Mark VI (Feet First): The final red dial variant, produced from approximately 1973-1975. Features:​

• Feet-first depth rating
• Red text printed directly on dial
• Closed 6’s in the depth rating
• Rounded appearance to the “S” in “SWISS”
• Serial range: approximately 3.5-4.0 million​

White Dial Submariners (Mark VII and Mark VIII)

Mark VII (White Submariner): Introduced around 1975-1976 in the 4.0 million serial range. This marked the transition to all-white text, with three sub-variations:​

• Mark I White: The “SUBMARINER” line is the same width as the depth rating line; the “L” in Rolex sits directly centered under the coronet; closed 6’s in the depth rating​
• Mark II White: The “SUBMARINER” text is now longer than the depth rating; the “L” has shifted slightly left; open 6’s​
• Mark III White: Further subtle variations in text spacing and positioning​

All white dial variants are feet-first with “T SWISS T” or “T<25 SWISS” markings indicating tritium lume. These were produced through the end of 1680 production circa 1979-1980.​​

Rolex Vintage Submariner White, Ref no 1680, Stainless Steel, Men’s, Matte Mark 1 Dial, 1975 

Mark VIII (Service Dial): An exceedingly rare variant produced after Rolex switched to Luminova in the 1990s. These service replacement dials feature:​

• Red “SUBMARINER” text (maintaining the red aesthetic for service replacements)
• “SWISS” marking only (no tritium designation)
• Luminova lume that will still glow (unlike aged tritium)
• White modern hands
• Extremely rare as most red dials were replaced with standard white dials during service​

Tropical Dials

A significant subset of 1680 dials, particularly early meters-first Mark II and Mark III examples, are famous for “going tropical” and transforming from their original black into rich shades of brown. This color change results from environmental factors affecting the dial lacquer, particularly UV exposure, humidity, and heat. When the transformation is even and complete, these tropical dials command substantial premiums. The gold 1680/8 blue dials that turned brown, orange, or purple are especially coveted.​

Case and Bezel Variations

Case Construction

The 1680 case is constructed from 904L stainless steel (for steel models) or 18k yellow gold (for the 1680/8). Cases feature polished sides and top surfaces with brushed lug tops, though many examples have been polished over the years, softening the originally sharp bevels on the lug edges. The crown guards are integral to the case construction, protecting the winding crown from impacts.​

Drilled lug holes are present on all 1680 examples, making bracelet or strap changes relatively straightforward. This feature would continue on Submariner models until the early 2000s. Spring bar holes are positioned for 20mm bracelet or strap widths.​​

Crown Types

The 1680 appeared with two different crown systems during its production:

Twinlock Crown (1967-1971): Early examples feature the Twinlock crown system, which uses two gaskets (one inside the crown compressing against the case tube, another inside the tube around the winding stem) to achieve the 200-meter water resistance rating. Twinlock crowns can be identified by either a single dash (-) or two dots (..) below the coronet logo on the crown. Notably, the earliest 1680 crowns have no markings at all below the coronet.​

Triplock Crown (1971-1980): In 1971, Rolex developed the Triplock crown system, which was introduced to authorized dealers in January 1972. The Triplock uses a larger crown and case tube with four gaskets to enhance water resistance. These crowns are identified by three dots (- – – ) below the coronet logo. While the depth rating remained 200 meters, the Triplock provided additional security and would become standard on all Rolex dive watches.​

Vintage Rolex Submariner 5513 5512 1680 Ghost Fat Font Faded  

Bezel Inserts

The 1680 was the last Submariner Date to feature a bidirectional rotating bezel, meaning it turns in both directions rather than only counterclockwise. This would change with the successor 16800, which introduced the safer unidirectional bezel that prevents accidental adjustment in a direction that could underestimate dive time.​

Bezel insert variations are a major focus for collectors:

Fat Font Inserts: Original 1680 bezels from the 1960s and early-to-mid 1970s feature what collectors call “fat font” numerals. These inserts have thick, bold white numerals with substantial paint application, designed for maximum legibility. The fonts are so wide that numbers nearly touch each other, with the “40” often “kissing” and appearing to connect. Fat font inserts also typically feature subtle serif details on the numerals, giving them small “feet” at the edges.​

These original inserts are highly prone to fading, with many developing a “ghost bezel” appearance where the black aluminum fades to gray or develops bluish-purple hues. Well-preserved fat font bezels with good color retention are increasingly rare and valuable.​

Thin Font Service Inserts: Starting in the late 1970s and becoming common in the 1980s, Rolex began using thinner font numerals on replacement bezel inserts. These service parts feature narrower, more refined numerals with less paint application and no serif details. While less collectible than original fat fonts, they age better and maintain legibility longer.​

The transition occurred as a practical matter: the thick paint on fat fonts tended to fade heavily and could bleed or become hard to read. Thinner applications preserved sharpness better, aligning with Rolex’s move toward modernization.​

Bezel Pearl

The luminous pearl at the 12 o’clock position on the bezel also underwent changes. Early examples feature tritium-filled pearls that match the cream or yellow patina of the dial’s tritium plots. Service replacement bezels typically have newer pearls that will still glow, creating a mismatch with aged dial lume.​​

Bracelet and Strap Options

The 1680 was fitted with several different Oyster bracelet types during its production, each representing an evolution in Rolex’s bracelet technology.

Rivet Bracelets (1967-1969)

The very earliest 1680 examples, particularly those from 1967-1969, may have been paired with rivet bracelets, though this is somewhat contentious among collectors. The Swiss-made reference 7206 rivet bracelet was officially discontinued around 1969 with the introduction of the folded link 9315 bracelet. However, American-made C&I rivet bracelets were sometimes fitted to early 1680 watches.​

Vintage Rolex Steel Swiss Folded Fliplock Oyster 9315  

Rivet bracelets feature:

• 12 links with individual riveted construction
• End links stamped “80” for Submariners (20mm lug width)​
• Reference 7206 stamped on the center section of the last large link (on 7-link side)​
• Date stamps on clasp blades
• No diver’s extension on the clasp​

Folded Link Oyster 9315 (1969-mid-1970s)

The reference 9315 folded link Oyster bracelet became the standard for the 1680 from 1969 onward. This bracelet features:​

• Folded link construction (stamped metal folded and welded)
• Reference 9315 stamped on the end link or clasp
• End links marked 280 (fixed) or 380 (removable) for Submariners​
• Fliplock clasp with diver’s extension
• “Tuna can” clasp design (pressed bracelet pattern on clasp exterior)​

The 9315 is notably prone to stretching and developing play between links, a common characteristic of folded link bracelets. Some examples famously feature the “PATETED” spelling error on the diver’s extension instead of “PATENTED”.​

Solid Link Oyster 93150 (mid-1970s-1980)

Around the mid-1970s, Rolex transitioned to the reference 93150 solid link Oyster bracelet. This represented a significant durability upgrade:​

• Solid link construction throughout
• Reference 93150 stamped on clasp
• End links marked 580 (removable) or 585 (Sea-Dweller variant)​
• Fliplock clasp with diver’s extension
• Greater resistance to stretching compared to folded links​

The 93150 continued in use through the end of 1680 production and into the 16800 era. Date stamps on the clasp (letter + number format) can help verify age-appropriateness of the bracelet to the watch.​

Identifying Original vs. Replaced Parts

Authentication and verification of original components is critical when evaluating a vintage 1680, as service replacements and incorrect parts can significantly impact both historical accuracy and market value.

Dial Verification

Original Dials display several key characteristics:

• Tritium lume that has aged to cream, vanilla, or yellow tones matching the hands​
• “T SWISS T” or “T<25” marking at 6 o’clock (red dials) or “SWISS-T<25” (white dials)​​
• Even, matte finish (not glossy) on both red and white variants​
• Correct dial variation for the serial number range​
• Lume plots that may show some age-appropriate degradation or clipping​
• Matching tritium color between dial plots and hands under UV light inspection​

Rolex Red Submariner Reference 1680 Unpolished — Wind Vintage 

Service Dials are identifiable by:

• “SWISS” marking only, indicating Luminova or Super-Luminova​​
• Bright white lume that will still actively glow green​​
• Often crisper, cleaner appearance than original aged dials​​
• May have slight text variations from period-correct originals​

Service dials dramatically reduce collector value compared to original dials. A red dial in good condition can cost thousands of dollars to source, and finding correct variations is extremely difficult.​

Hands

Original tritium hands should match the dial’s lume color, displaying cream to yellow aging. Service replacement hands will be bright white and glow actively. Mismatched lume colors between dial and hands indicate service work.​​

Bezel Insert

Determining insert originality:

• Fat font numerals indicate original or period-correct insert from 1960s-1970s​
• Thin font suggests service replacement from late 1970s onward​
• Faded “ghost” appearance with gray or purple tones indicates authentic aging​
• Pearl should match dial tritium color if original​
• Crisp, dark black with bright white numbers suggests newer replacement​

Crown

Correct crown for serial number range:

• No markings below coronet: very early examples (1967-1969)​
• Dash or two dots: Twinlock crown (1967-1971)​
• Three dots: Triplock crown (1971-1980)​

Case Condition

• Sharp, defined bevels on lug edges indicate minimal polishing​
• Visible spring bar holes protruding suggests excessive polishing​
• Caseback interior should show “1680” stamping and production date stamp​

Collector Notes and Market Context

Current Market Positioning

The Rolex Submariner 1680 occupies a sweet spot in the vintage Rolex market, offering genuine historical significance and diverse collectibility at price points generally more accessible than other vintage sports references like the Daytona or GMT-Master “Pepsi.”

Red Submariner (Mark I-VI) Market Range: $17,000 to $60,000+​

• Mark I and Mark II meters-first examples command the highest premiums
• Tropical dial examples can exceed $60,000 with exceptional patina
• Unpolished cases with fat font bezels and original parts demand premium pricing
• Service dial examples typically trade at the lower end of the range

White Submariner (Mark VII) Market Range: $9,000 to $18,000+​

• Generally more affordable than red variants despite being rarer
• Strong examples with original dials and correct bezels trade toward upper range
• Service dial examples available at lower price points

Gold 1680/8 Market Range: Significantly higher than steel variants

• Black dial examples: Starting around $18,000-$25,000+
• Tropical dial examples: $30,000-$60,000+ depending on color and condition​

The broader vintage Rolex market saw dramatic appreciation from 2020-2022, with average prices surging 839% over 15 years (2010-2025), though prices have corrected approximately 22% from peak levels as of mid-2025. Vintage Submariner references including the 1680 experienced similar trajectory, with current pricing stabilized but remaining substantially elevated from pre-2020 levels.​

Configurations Most Sought After

Collectors particularly prize:

1. Meters-first Red Submariners (Mark I-III): Especially with tropical patina​
2. Unpolished or lightly polished cases with sharp lugs and bevels​
3. Fat font bezel inserts with period-correct fading​
4. Matching tritium lume between dial, hands, and bezel pearl​
5. Complete sets with box, papers, and correct-dated bracelet​
6. Gold 1680/8 with dramatic tropical dial transformation​

Common Pitfalls When Purchasing

Buyers should exercise caution regarding:

Service Dial Replacement: Many 1680 watches underwent service where original red or white dials were replaced with newer dials featuring Luminova. These replacements significantly reduce collector value, though some buyers appreciate the improved functionality of glowing lume.​​

Incorrect Bracelet Pairing: Rivet bracelets, while visually appealing, were generally not correct for the 1680 outside of very early examples or US-market C&I bracelets. Many 1680 watches have been incorrectly paired with 7206 rivet bracelets for aesthetic reasons.​

Bezel Insert Replacement: Thin font service bezels are extremely common on 1680 watches that underwent Rolex service. While functional, they lack the originality and character of fat font inserts.​

Excessive Polishing: Cases that have been heavily polished lose their crisp edges, with spring bars potentially protruding from lug holes and bevels softened or eliminated. This is considered highly undesirable and reduces value substantially.​​

Dial Repainting/Refinishing: Refinished dials lack the subtle aging characteristics and lume patina of originals. Under magnification and UV light, refinished dials often reveal themselves through inconsistent details.​

Frankenwatches: Assembled from parts of various eras or with non-Rolex components. These can be difficult to detect without expert examination.​

What Drives Premiums

Several factors command price premiums:

• Box and papers: Original box, papers, and even sales receipts add substantial value​
• Unpolished condition: Sharp, crisp cases are increasingly rare​
• Period-correct configuration: All-original parts correctly matched to serial range​
• Desirable dial marks: Early meters-first red dials (Mark I-III)​
• Tropical transformation: Even, attractive color change