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There are few vintage watches that offer as much charisma per dollar as the Tissot PR-516 series. While the Submariner and the Speedmaster dominate the conversation of 1960s and 70s tool watches, the PR-516 carved out its own lane of “Particularly Robust” sports watches that felt distinctly modern. This model carries a special cachet in the collector community, often affectionately linked to Roger Moore. Before he donned the magnetic Submariner in Live and Let Die, Moore was frequently spotted wearing a PR-516, cementing this model’s status as a symbol of suave, 1970s spy-thriller cool. It is, without a doubt, one of the most culturally evocative designs to come out of Le Locle.
The genius of the PR-516 lies in its architectural approach to dial design. Tissot introduced a “suspended” movement system to improve shock resistance, but the aesthetic byproduct was even more revolutionary. The indices are cantilevered, floating above the dial surface rather than being applied directly to it. This creates a remarkable sense of depth and shadow play that few watches of this era can match. It was a design inspired by the steering wheels of race cars, intended to bridge the gap between motorsport adrenaline and diving durability.
This specific Reference 44622, dating to 1971, is a standout example of that ethos. It features a rich, petrol blue dial that shifts color depending on the light, anchoring the floating indices with a cool, aquatic tone. The real star here, however, is the Bakelite bezel. Unlike flat aluminum inserts, this acrylic bezel has a warmth and thickness that gives the watch a gem-like quality on the wrist. The pop of the bright orange-red seconds hand against the dark blue dial is pure 1970s design language, prioritizing legibility and flair in equal measure.
Condition is everything with these acrylic-bezel divers, and this example wears its history with pride. The Bakelite bezel shows signs of honest use, with some scratches and crazing that speak to its life as a true tool watch rather than a safe queen. The case retains its sharp, angular geometry, avoiding the “melted soap” look of over-polished vintage pieces. The tritium lume on the hands and markers has aged to a soft cream color, while the movement, the robust Caliber 784-2, remains clean and ready for duty.
For the collector who wants a piece of history that doesn’t look like every other dive watch at the meetup, this Tissot is the answer. It is rugged, historically significant, and undeniably stylish. Whether paired with a broken-in leather jacket or a wetsuit, it captures the adventurous spirit of the Roger Moore era perfectly. It is a reminder that great design doesn’t always require a mortgage-level price tag; it just requires a bit of attitude.
