Baume Mercier Riviera Automatic MV045165 Guilloché Dial

$1,426.00

A striking 1990s Baume & Mercier Riviera in full stainless steel, featuring the iconic dodecagonal bezel, a gorgeous guilloché textured dial with applied Roman numerals, and the original integrated bracelet. The interplay of brushed and polished surfaces across that twelve-sided case gives this one a sculptural quality that photographs simply cannot do justice.

General

Brand
Model LineRiviera
referenceMV045165
ManufacturedSwitzerland
DepartmentMen
Dial ColorCream

Case

Case Width36mm
Case Height40mm
Case Shapedodecagonal
Case MaterialStainless Steel
BezelFixed

Strap / Bracelet

Lug WidthN/A
Strap MaterialStainless Steel
Strap ColorSilver
ClaspBaume Mercier Folding Clasp
Max Wrist Size8.5″

Movement

MovementAutomatic
CaliberBaume Mercier BM11892A
Accuracy< 5 secondsThe movement showed a daily accuracy deviation ranging from 0 to 5 seconds across six positions.

Extras

Warranty2-Year Ottuhr WarrantyOur standard two-year mechanical warranty which covers the mechanical functions and accuracy of the timepiece.
Original BoxNo
Original PapersNo

Overview

There is no conversation about the luxury steel sports watch without mentioning the Baume & Mercier Riviera. Launched in 1973, the same decade that gave us the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus, the Riviera was designed by Jean-Claude Gueit, a contemporary of the legendary Gérald Genta, and it brought something entirely new to the table: a twelve-sided dodecagonal bezel that reflected the twelve hours on the dial, paired with an integrated flat-link steel bracelet and a boldly geometric silhouette. While the Royal Oak and Nautilus tend to dominate the conversation around 1970s luxury sports watches, the Riviera arguably predated many of the design conventions those watches would later popularize, and it did so at a far more accessible price point. Baume & Mercier, founded in 1830 and one of the oldest names in Swiss watchmaking, had always possessed a keen sense of when the winds of taste were shifting, and the Riviera was a perfect expression of that instinct: a watch built for a generation that valued leisure, independence, and modernity over the stuffy gold dress watches of their fathers.

Over the following decades, the Riviera evolved through multiple generations, adapting to each era while retaining the fundamental design codes that made it iconic. The original 1973 model featured an ESA electronic movement, and by 1979 the collection had slimmed down with the adoption of quartz calibers. The 1980s and 1990s saw the range expand dramatically, embracing both quartz and automatic movements, gold and steel combinations, chronographs, and even complete calendars with moon phases. This particular example, Reference MV045165, belongs to the fourth generation of the Riviera, produced during the 1990s, a period when Baume & Mercier leaned into the automatic variant with real conviction. Inside beats a reliable Swiss automatic movement, likely an ETA-based caliber, offering the mechanical soul that collectors appreciate in a package designed for everyday versatility. The caseback confirms the essential details: “Stainless Steel, Automatic, Baume & Mercier Genève, 50M,” with the serial number 4025271 and the model reference engraved alongside the brand’s Phi logo in raised relief.

The dial on this example is, without question, one of the most refined executions in the entire Riviera lineage. Rather than a simple flat or sunburst finish, Baume & Mercier opted for a full guilloché texture across the entire dial surface, a fine, repeating pattern that gives the face a shimmering, almost woven quality when it catches the light. It is a detail more commonly associated with haute horlogerie dials, and its presence here elevates the Riviera well beyond the typical steel sports watch of its era. The applied Roman numerals are rendered in a modern, open-worked style that feels distinctly of the 1990s without being dated, sitting proud against the textured background. Between the numerals, small round lume plots provide nighttime legibility, their fills having aged to a warm, creamy tone that adds a subtle vintage warmth to the overall composition. The handset is a clean, sword-style design in polished steel, with a slender seconds hand sweeping the dial. “Baume & Mercier Genève” sits beneath the Phi logo at twelve, with “Riviera” rendered in an elegant script font and “Automatic” printed in block capitals just below it. A date window at six o’clock, framed with a subtle border, completes the functional layout. The overall impression is one of quiet sophistication, a dial that rewards close inspection and reveals more detail the longer you look.

The stainless steel case presents in strong condition, with the twelve facets of the dodecagonal bezel retaining their sharp, well-defined edges and the interplay of brushed and polished surfaces still clearly legible. The profile shot reveals the integrated crown, signed with the Baume & Mercier Phi logo, sitting recessed into the case flank in a way that preserves the clean geometric lines of the design. The case shows honest wear consistent with a watch that has been enjoyed, with light surface scratching on both the bezel and bracelet that speaks to a life well-spent on someone’s wrist. The original integrated bracelet is present and complete, with the Baume & Mercier logo engraved on the upper center link and the signed deployant clasp reading “Baume & Mercier, Swiss Made.” The bracelet’s alternating brushed and polished links give it a visual depth that pairs beautifully with the case, and the whole package wears with a confidence and heft that belies its refined appearance.

For the collector drawn to the world of 1970s-inspired luxury steel sports watches but looking for something beyond the obvious choices, the Baume & Mercier Riviera is a wildly compelling alternative. It carries genuine design pedigree, with roots that trace back to the very origins of the integrated-bracelet sports watch genre, and this particular guilloché-dialed automatic example represents, to us, one of the most elegant expressions of the fourth-generation design. With Baume & Mercier’s recent revival of the Riviera line generating renewed interest in the model’s history, well-preserved original examples from the 1990s era are becoming increasingly sought after by collectors who appreciate the design’s lineage. This is a watch that offers the aesthetic thrill of a luxury sports watch, the mechanical satisfaction of a Swiss automatic, and a level of craftsmanship in its dial work that genuinely surprises at this price level. It deserves far more attention than it typically receives, and we suspect it will not remain overlooked for much longer.

Timing: The watch has been measured with a timegrapher at six different positions. The rate, amplitude, and beat error are within acceptable ranges.

Functions: All functions including the crown winding, time setting, etc are working as expected.

Integrity: The movement shows no signs of damage, rust, or corrosion, with all components appearing clean and well-maintained.

Authenticity: Each timepiece is evaluated and authenticated in-house. This watch is guaranteed to be correct to its manufacturer and time period.

Warranty: This timepiece includes a 2-year mechanical warranty, activated upon the date of purchase. Warranty Policy

Shipping: This timepeice includes complimentary insured shipping within all 50 states, and options for expedited shipping. Shipping Information

Returns: If, for any reason, you are not entirely satisfied with your purchase, you may return the product for a full refund within 30 days from the date you received or signed for the item. Read our Return Policy

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